{"id":30,"date":"2016-11-23T09:41:52","date_gmt":"2017-05-03T05:50:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/burdayiz.heliohost.org\/?p=30"},"modified":"2017-05-17T07:43:23","modified_gmt":"2017-05-17T04:43:23","slug":"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/?p=30","title":{"rendered":"Transsibirya G\u00fcnleri: Irkutsk-Lake Baikal"},"content":{"rendered":"

8. G\u00fcn Irkutsk, Cumartesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

ENJOYING WITH Q CLAVIER<\/strong><\/p>\n

Irkutsk istasyonu \u00f6n\u00fcnden bindi\u011fimiz tramvay bizi hostel<\/em>\u2019\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Bu sefer tam da arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerde buluyoruz hostel<\/em>\u2019\u0131 \u263a Ufak bir daire buras\u0131, iki odas\u0131 var. Bizim kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z oda alt\u0131 ki\u015filik, bizden ba\u015fka bir G\u00fcney Koreli ve iki \u0130svi\u00e7reli k\u0131z, bir de Londral\u0131 \u00e7ocuk kal\u0131yor. Ama hostel<\/em>\u2019daki esas o\u011flan yan\u0131m\u0131zdaki odada kalan pi-s\u0131-\u015f\u0131k (psi\u015fik) Hollandal\u0131! Daha hostel<\/em>\u2019a geli\u015fimizin ilk yar\u0131m saatinde ortak kullan\u0131ma a\u00e7\u0131k iki bilgisayardan birini i\u015fgal etti\u011fimiz i\u00e7in yolda\u015f\u0131ma g\u0131c\u0131k kap\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 yan\u0131ma gelip \u201cHe\u2019s enjoying with Q clavier\u201d diyerek belirtiyor. \u0130lerleyen zamanda anl\u0131yoruz ki onun as\u0131l g\u00f6revi millete g\u0131c\u0131k kapmak. (Ak\u015famki mutfak muhabbetinin de i\u00e7ine, \u0130svi\u00e7reli k\u0131zlara feminizm konusunda g\u0131c\u0131k kaparak edecek!) Temel ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 giderdikten sonra hemen kendimizi d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya at\u0131yor, \u015fehri ke\u015ffe dal\u0131yoruz. \u00d6nce Angara nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda dolan\u0131yor, ard\u0131ndan \u015fehrin sokaklar\u0131nda dolanarak merkeze, central market\u2019e gidiyoruz. Hava \u00e7ok g\u00fczel ve g\u00fcnlerden cumartesi oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in ortal\u0131k c\u0131v\u0131l c\u0131v\u0131l. Yiyecek, i\u00e7ecek ba\u011flam\u0131nda her \u015feyin sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu kocaman pazar\u0131 gezerken g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcze ili\u015fen kurutulmu\u015f omul bal\u0131klar\u0131ndan al\u0131yoruz hemen bir tane. Buraya gelmeden \u00f6nce nam\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ok duyduk gezginlerin payla\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131ndan, tatmadan olmaz! Eh, yan\u0131na da buz gibi bira gider \u015fimdi bunun! Pazar\u0131n \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki kald\u0131r\u0131mda g\u00fcmletiveriyoruz omulu. Omul, yaln\u0131zca Baykal G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019nde yeti\u015fen bir bal\u0131k ve bunu \u00f6zel bir d\u00fczenekle iste pi\u015firiyorlar. Tad\u0131n\u0131 hi\u00e7bir \u015feyle ba\u011fda\u015ft\u0131ramam ama san\u0131r\u0131m beynimin en unutamayaca\u011f\u0131 tatlardand\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-1\"<\/p>\n

Central Market ve birbirinden sevimli babushka (\u0431\u0430\u0431\u0443\u0448\u043a\u0430)lar<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-2\"<\/p>\n

Kendimizi bu kadar \u015f\u0131martt\u0131ktan sonra Irkutsk\u2019u ke\u015ffe devam. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck, sakin ve estetik bir \u015fehir. \u00d6zellikle ah\u015faptan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f evlerinin her biri bir ustan\u0131n parmaklar\u0131nda hayat bulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-4\"<\/p>\n

Shastyna Evi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-5\"<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-6\"<\/p>\n

Sukachev Sanat M\u00fczesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Irkutsk, bir d\u00f6nemin s\u00fcrg\u00fcn yeriymi\u015f. \u00c7ok say\u0131da Polonyal\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra \u00fcnl\u00fc yazar Anton \u00c7ehov da dahil olmak \u00fczere \u00fcnl\u00fc, \u00fcns\u00fcz pek \u00e7ok ki\u015fi burada s\u00fcrg\u00fcn hayat\u0131 ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. Hangi co\u011frafya, hangi \u0131rk s\u00f6z konusu olursa olsun sava\u015flarda katledilen masum insanlar\u0131 unutmamak, sava\u015flar\u0131n ne denli b\u00fcy\u00fck bir insanl\u0131k su\u00e7u oldu\u011funu an\u0131msamak ad\u0131na \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli. Gitti\u011fimiz pek \u00e7ok yerde oldu\u011fu gibi burada da bir \u201cs\u00f6nmeyen ate\u015f\u201dle y\u00fcre\u011fimizi da\u011flamadan ge\u00e7miyoruz elbet.<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-7\"<\/p>\n

S\u00f6nmeyen Ate\u015f<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-8\"<\/p>\n

Epiphany Katedrali<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-9\"<\/p>\n

Holy Trinity Kilisesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eehirde neredeyse ayak basmad\u0131k sokak kalmay\u0131nca yorgunlu\u011fumuzu gidermek \u00fczere, biralar\u0131 al\u0131p nehir kenar\u0131na gidiyoruz. G\u00fcne\u015fi Angara sular\u0131nda bat\u0131raca\u011f\u0131z. Bu arada \u00f6\u011freniyoruz ki baz\u0131 \u015fehirlerde sokakta biray\u0131 \u00f6zel yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kese ka\u011f\u0131tlar\u0131na sarmadan, ulu orta i\u00e7mek yasak! Bu kese ka\u011f\u0131tlar\u0131 kutu ve \u015fi\u015fe biralara uygun boyutta renkli ka\u011f\u0131tlardan \u00fcretilmi\u015f olup bira satan yerlerden para kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 temin ediliyor. Bizim gibi uyan\u0131klar elbette bu ka\u011f\u0131t par\u00e7alar\u0131na para vermiyor ve \u00e7\u00f6ptekilerden yararlan\u0131yor \u263a<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-10\"<\/p>\n

Saat 22.30 civar\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015fi bat\u0131rd\u0131ktan sonra hava serinliyor ve hostel\u2019a d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz. Du\u015f, internet, yataklar\u0131n haz\u0131rlanmas\u0131 ve yeni dostlarla biraz sohbetten sonra yar\u0131n erken ba\u015flayacak Baykal gezimizde zinde olabilmek i\u00e7in dinlenmeye \u00e7ekiliyoruz.<\/p>\n

9. G\u00fcn Lake Baikal, Pazar<\/strong><\/p>\n

G\u00d6LDE GUYS<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah erkenden uyan\u0131yoruz. Nerdeyse t\u00fcm hostel Baykal\u2019a gidiyor bug\u00fcn, herkeste bir ko\u015fu\u015fturma. Yataklar toplan\u0131p \u00e7ar\u015faflar hostel sahibine iade ediliyor, \u00e7antalar toparlan\u0131yor, bir yandan da ayak \u00fcst\u00fc bir\u015feyler at\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor. Psi\u015fik ortadan tak\u0131l\u0131p milletin yiyeceklerinden otluyor \u00e7akt\u0131rmadan. \u201cIs this your bread?<\/strong>\u201d Senin de\u011filse, benimdir hesab\u0131 l\u00fcppp mideye. Biz durakta tramvay beklerken \u0130svi\u00e7reli k\u0131zlar, G\u00fcney Koreli k\u0131z ve de psi\u015fik geliyor. Baykal\u2019a giden otob\u00fcslerin kalkt\u0131\u011f\u0131 dura\u011fa gitmek \u00fczere tramvaya biniyoruz hep birlikte. Psi\u015fik g\u00fcn\u00fcn bombas\u0131n\u0131 patlat\u0131yor: \u201cAppearently i have only thousands!<\/strong>\u201d ve bozuk param kalmam\u0131\u015f aya\u011f\u0131na tramvay paras\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131zlardan topluyor. Oohhh helal sana psi\u015fik, bele\u015f kahvalt\u0131dan sonra tramvay paras\u0131ndan da y\u0131rtt\u0131n. M\u00fc\u015fterek g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcz psi\u015fi\u011fin epey uzun s\u00fcredir bozuk para bulundurmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00f6n\u00fcnde, eh ne de olsa ufak hesaplar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fcyor \u263a Fakat as\u0131l kaz\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u201cgeldik\u201d diye hepimizi apar topar indirip \u00fc\u00e7 durak y\u00fcr\u00fcterek at\u0131yor! \u00dcst\u00fcne \u00fcstl\u00fck yorumu \u00f6zr\u00fcnden b\u00fcy\u00fck: \u201cBiraz y\u00fcr\u00fcmekten kime zarar gelir ki!!!\u201d Arkada\u015f\u0131m, zaman\u0131m\u0131z zaten k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131, sabah\u0131n k\u00f6r\u00fcnde d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f\u00fcz yollara\u2026 \u00dcstelik Koreli k\u0131z\u0131n s\u0131rt\u0131nda 60 lt \u00e7anta\u2026 Tabanlar\u0131 ya\u011flay\u0131p bir an \u00f6nce otob\u00fcs dura\u011f\u0131na varmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken, bildi\u011fimiz t\u00fcm k\u00fcf\u00fcrleri ediyoruz pis \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011fa. Kafa g\u00f6z yararak ve de bilimum el kol i\u015faretleriyle derdimizi anlat\u0131p Baykal\u2019a giden minib\u00fcse biniyoruz. Minib\u00fcste iki ki\u015filik yan yana yer olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan ben arka tarafta cam kenar\u0131 bir yere, yolda\u015f\u0131m da en \u00f6ne \u015fof\u00f6r yan\u0131na oturuyor. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 60 km boyunca tam motosiklet ile yap\u0131lacak, olduk\u00e7a g\u00fczel bir yoldan ilerleyerek Baykal G\u00f6l\u00fc kenar\u0131ndaki Listvyanka\u2019ya geliyoruz.<\/p>\n

Sahil boyunca kamp atm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ad\u0131rc\u0131larla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yoruz. Patikalar e\u011flenceli oldu\u011fu kadar yer yer tehlikeli de. Trekking maceram\u0131zdan sonra susuzlu\u011fumuzu Baykal G\u00f6l\u00fc suyundan \u00fcretilen buz gibi su ile gideriyoruz. Daha sonra kalabal\u0131k sahilde havlumuzu yay\u0131p yerli kad\u0131nlar\u0131n pi\u015firdi\u011fi iki adet isli omul bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve yan\u0131na iki \u015fi\u015fe buzzz gibi Rus biras\u0131 ile dinlenme keyfi yap\u0131yoruz. Baykal G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019nde y\u00fczme plan\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ayaklar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 suya soktuktan sonra iptal ediyoruz. Su buz gibi, ayaklar\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7erisinde bir, iki dakikadan sonra hissetmiyor, hemen \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz. Burada y\u00fczmek imkans\u0131z diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken az ileride \u015famata yapan bir gruptan iki ki\u015fi \u015f\u0131b\u0131rlof dal\u0131yor g\u00f6le. Afall\u0131yoruz, insan m\u0131 bunlar?! Sonra ayn\u0131 gruptan bir ki\u015fi daha giriyor, elindeki bo\u015f \u015fi\u015feye g\u00f6l suyu doldurup di\u011ferlerini de \u0131slat\u0131yor. Anl\u0131yoruz ki so\u011fuk Baykal suyu yoktur, az vodka vard\u0131r!!! Bu arada tad\u0131 dama\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda kalan omullardan birer tane daha g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-11\"<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-12\"<\/p>\n

G\u00f6l kenar\u0131 \u00e7ok keyifli. Hava s\u0131cak ve g\u00fcne\u015fli. Bir sonraki bal\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 en b\u00fcy\u00fcklerinden yiyerek bal\u0131k i\u015fini sonland\u0131rma niyetindeyiz. Rus\u00e7ada bavish<\/em> b\u00fcy\u00fck demek. \u0130lk gitti\u011fimiz bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 abla \u201cno bavish\u201d deyince anl\u0131yoruz. Bir sonraki sat\u0131c\u0131 abladan 2 tane bavish al\u0131p omul bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n tad\u0131na doyuyoruz. Biraz merkezde dola\u015ft\u0131ktan sonra Irkutsk\u2019a geri d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz. Angara kenar\u0131 panay\u0131r yeri gibi hareketli. Gen\u00e7, ya\u015fl\u0131 demeden halk en \u015f\u0131k k\u0131yafetlerini giymi\u015fler, m\u00fczik enstr\u00fcmanlar\u0131n\u0131 al\u0131p gelmi\u015fler. Bir yandan \u00e7al\u0131p s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor, bir yandan da seyri doyumsuz danslar ediyorlar. Yani, g\u00f6r\u00fcnen o ki insanlar burada mutlu, huzurlu, g\u00fcnl\u00fck s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 fazlaca kafaya takmadan, hayat\u0131n keyfini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yorlar, haftada bir g\u00fcn de olsa!<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-13\"<\/p>\n

Biraz bu keyifli toplulu\u011fun co\u015fkusuna ortak olduktan sonra bir, iki saat daha \u015fehirde turlay\u0131p saat 21.50\u2019deki trenimiz i\u00e7in gerekli al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi yap\u0131yor, istasyona geliyoruz. Bu seferki yolculu\u011fumuz avam kamaras\u0131 \u201cplatzkart\u201d, yani 56 ki\u015filik halk kompart\u0131man\u0131. S\u0131rf bunu da deneyimlemek i\u00e7in on saatlik bu k\u0131sa yolculu\u011fumuzu bu \u015fekilde planlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-15\"<\/p>\n

\"transsibirya-gunleri-irkutsk-lake-baikal-16\"<\/p>\n

Kompart\u0131man tam bir curcuna, \u00e7ocuk, \u00e7ombalak, e\u015felenme hi\u00e7 bitmiyor. Biz, altl\u0131 \u00fcstl\u00fc seyahat ediyoruz. Alt yatak katlanarak ortada ufak bir masa olu\u015fturuyor. Kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 biralar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yudumlarken trenimiz Baykal kenar\u0131ndan s\u00fcz\u00fcle s\u00fcz\u00fcle Ulan-Ude\u2019ye do\u011fru yol al\u0131yor. Sabah 06.00\u2019da inece\u011fimiz Ulan-Ude istasyonunda bizi ikinci couch-surfer<\/em>\u2019\u0131m\u0131z olacak Eleonora kar\u015f\u0131layacak. Bakal\u0131m bir sonraki durakta ba\u015f\u0131m\u0131za neler gelecek, yolumuza kimler \u00e7\u0131kacak?\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

8. G\u00fcn Irkutsk, Cumartesi ENJOYING WITH Q CLAVIER Irkutsk istasyonu \u00f6n\u00fcnden bindi\u011fimiz tramvay bizi hostel\u2019\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Bu sefer tam da arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerde buluyoruz hostel\u2019\u0131 \u263a Ufak bir daire buras\u0131, iki odas\u0131 var. Bizim kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z oda alt\u0131 ki\u015filik, bizden ba\u015fka bir G\u00fcney Koreli ve iki \u0130svi\u00e7reli k\u0131z, bir de Londral\u0131 \u00e7ocuk kal\u0131yor. Ama hostel\u2019daki esas […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-30","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=30"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30\/revisions\/31"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=30"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=30"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=30"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}