{"id":574,"date":"2017-06-28T14:36:01","date_gmt":"2017-06-28T11:36:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/burdayiz.heliohost.org\/?p=574"},"modified":"2025-09-15T19:38:50","modified_gmt":"2025-09-15T16:38:50","slug":"patagonya-ushuaia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/?p=574","title":{"rendered":"Patagonya &#8211; Ushuaia"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"responsive-map\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: 0;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d147171.80363954708!2d-68.44305261532043!3d-54.80528579718961!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0xbc4c22b5bad109bf%3A0x5498473dba43ebfc!2sUshuaia%2C+Tierra+del+Fuego%2C+Arjantin!5e0!3m2!1str!2str!4v1498648543405\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zJyDJMKLlVr3NKXy-W5r0lJWEHAK9ZD_=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zJyDJMKLlVr3NKXy-W5r0lJWEHAK9ZD_=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bir yandan evsizlik, barks\u0131zl\u0131k kayg\u0131s\u0131, di\u011fer yandan kafada havaalan\u0131na gitme, bagaj vermeden u\u00e7a\u011fa s\u0131v\u0131\u015fma planlar\u0131\u2026 derken bir s\u00fcr\u00fc belirsizlik i\u00e7erisinde risk alman\u0131n verdi\u011fi tarif edilmez zevk ile 9 Temmuz Caddesi\u2019ndeki otob\u00fcs duraklar\u0131ndan zafer mutlulu\u011fuyla bindi\u011fimiz 45 numaral\u0131 belediye otob\u00fcs\u00fc \u015f\u00f6f\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcn kendi dilinde sarf etti\u011fi bir tomar laf\u0131n \u00fczerine \u00f6nce OK deyip, birka\u00e7 durak sonra Retiro\u2019da indirmesi \u00ab\u00a0N\u2019ooluyo yaaa, ne g\u00fczel s\u0131cak s\u0131cak havaalan\u0131na gidiyoduk\u00a0\u00bb dedirtse de bizimle ayn\u0131 anda otob\u00fcsten indirilen k\u0131z\u0131n da elindeki bavulla durakta beklemesi endi\u015felerimizi biraz dindiriyor. \u00ab\u00a0U\u2019r also going to the airport\u00a0\u00bb sorumuza verdi\u011fi \u00ab\u00a0Yes, to Ushuaia\u00a0\u00bb yan\u0131t\u0131yla sabah\u0131n o saatinde ayn\u0131 u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n yolcusu oldu\u011fumuzu bilmenin tarif edilemez g\u00fcveniyle doluyoruz . Bir sonra gelen otob\u00fcse binecekmi\u015fiz. Eeee, bi daha m\u0131 para vericez yani\u00a0? O kadar ekomoni yapacaz diye SUBE kart ald\u0131k. \u00ab\u00a0No\u00a0\u00bb diyor \u00ab\u00a0the driver is going to arrange\u00a0\u00bb. OK, be\u015f dakika i\u00e7erisinde bir sonraki otob\u00fcs geliyor. Hem de maestroda rastal\u0131, piercingli, \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131n bir driverla. Adam u\u00e7uruyor adeta otob\u00fcs\u00fc. Yemin ederim k\u0131z olmasayd\u0131 Ushuaia\u2019da inerdik otob\u00fcsten \u00ab\u00a0terminus\u00a0\u00bb anonsuyla \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Gelsin s\u0131radaki karma\u015fa\u2026 Elektronik check-in\u2019i yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f u\u00e7u\u015fun bini\u015f kartlar\u0131n\u0131 basmak gerekiyor kiosktan. Aksi taktirde kontuarda bagaj polemi\u011fi ya\u015fanacak. Adamlar her tarafa alt\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ize \u00e7ize yazm\u0131\u015flar kabin bagaj\u0131 tek bir par\u00e7a ve ufak boy olmal\u0131d\u0131r diye. Kiosk ekran\u0131nda dil se\u00e7ene\u011fi yok. \u0130nsan y\u0131llarca kafa patlat\u0131p, dilbilim doktoru olunca diller aras\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131nt\u0131lar kurabiliyor. Analogie y\u00f6ntemiyle bas\u0131lan se\u00e7enekler sonras\u0131 bini\u015f kartlar\u0131 d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcveriyor kioskun a\u011fz\u0131ndan.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Geriye kald\u0131 kabine girmek. Bilet al\u0131rken, check-in yaparken ve hatta bini\u015f kart\u0131 bas\u0131m a\u015famas\u0131nda bile \u00ab\u00a0okudum, anlad\u0131m, kabul ediyorum\u00a0\u00bb diye i\u015faretlettikleri kabin bagaj\u0131 \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclerine uygun olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kesin. Neyse ki sabah\u0131n bu saatinde kimse u\u011fra\u015fm\u0131yor ve d\u00f6rt saatlik Ushuaia u\u00e7u\u015fu sorunsuzca ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Bu saatte u\u00e7ak bombo\u015f olur, boylu boyunca yat\u0131p uyuruz hevesleri kursakta tango yaparken, bir ki\u015filik bile bo\u015f koltuk olmayan u\u00e7aktaki bu kadar insan\u0131n bu so\u011fukta, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n sonunda ne yapaca\u011f\u0131 sorusuna yan\u0131t aramakla ge\u00e7iyor yolculu\u011fumuz.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Oturur pozisyonda yar\u0131 uyur yar\u0131 uyan\u0131k ge\u00e7en u\u00e7u\u015fun sonunda karlarla kaplanm\u0131\u015f ate\u015f topraklar\u0131na ayak bas\u0131yoruz. Havaalan\u0131ndan \u015fehir merkezine tek ula\u015f\u0131m arac\u0131 taksi. Yedi sekiz kilometre uzakl\u0131kta ve yakla\u015f\u0131k olarak altm\u0131\u015f be\u015f, yetmi\u015f bin pesos tutuyor. Saat 08:30 olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n g\u00fcn hen\u00fcz a\u011farmam\u0131\u015f ve lapa lapa kar ya\u011f\u0131yor. Taksinin arka koltu\u011funda ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m bu sahne beni y\u0131llar \u00f6ncesine, \u00e7ocukluk g\u00fcnlerime g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. T\u0131pk\u0131 b\u00f6yle g\u00fcn a\u011farmadan yollara d\u00fc\u015ferdim k\u0131talararas\u0131 okuluma gitmek i\u00e7in, hen\u00fcz sokak lambalar\u0131 s\u00f6nmemi\u015f, alt\u0131nda kar taneleri u\u00e7u\u015furken. Kimi zaman radyodan gelen okullar\u0131n tatil edildi\u011fi anonsu d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en mutlu insan\u0131 olmama yeterdi. Ne g\u00fczel g\u00fcnlerdi\u2026 Ama bug\u00fcn \u00e7ok daha g\u00fczel, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc bug\u00fcn ben d\u00fcnyan\u0131n dibindeyim. Fin del Mundo\u2026 \u00d6tesi yok\u00a0! Biran \u00f6nce hostele e\u015fyalar\u0131 at\u0131p, bu kar\u0131n alt\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcmek, \u00fc\u015f\u00fcmek, donmak istiyorum.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">D\u00fcnyan\u0131n neresinde olursan\u0131z olun hostel ortam\u0131 kahvalt\u0131 hakk\u0131n\u0131z olmasa da makineye dizdi\u011finiz s\u0131ra s\u0131ra ekmekleri teklifsizce yiyebilece\u011finiz ho\u015fg\u00f6r\u00fc ve misafirperverlik sunar size. Soba ba\u015f\u0131nda da bir g\u00fczel gidiyo ki o k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f ekmekler.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12vuoJomFsJkeTc0UxsdXFML83Holx1b9=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12vuoJomFsJkeTc0UxsdXFML83Holx1b9=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pnGG_GdBwEFxvuH6UZ-_VHqJgKowBJPu=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pnGG_GdBwEFxvuH6UZ-_VHqJgKowBJPu=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ushuaia, Macellan\u2019\u0131n Ate\u015f Topraklar\u0131, Temmuz ortas\u0131nda eksi derecelerdeki iklimiyle, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n g\u00fcney ucundaki son yerle\u015fim yeri. Bu sebepten d\u00fcnyan\u0131n sonu olarak an\u0131l\u0131yor. Bin kilometre g\u00fcneyi Antarktika. Burada g\u00f6r\u00fclecekler listesinde Atlas Okyanusu\u2019yla Pasifik Okyanusu aras\u0131nda yer alan Beagle Kanal\u0131, Tierra del Fuego Milli park\u0131, M\u00fcze hapishane, Martial buzulu var. Ancak tipi \u015feklinde ya\u011fan kar bir \u00e7ok se\u00e7ene\u011fi olanaks\u0131z k\u0131l\u0131yor. Beagle kanal\u0131 tekneyle yap\u0131lan 3 saatlik bir gezi. G\u00f6\u00e7 mevsimi dolay\u0131s\u0131yla penguen ve deniz aslan\u0131 g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil ve zaten tipi g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f mesafesini neredeyse s\u0131f\u0131rlam\u0131\u015f durumda. Milli park uygun mevsimde gelindi\u011finde g\u00fcnlerce kamp at\u0131labilecek, altm\u0131\u015f \u00fc\u00e7 bin hektara yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, fauna ve flora a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan son derece zengin bir do\u011fa harikas\u0131. \u0130\u00e7inde bir de sekiz kilometrelik tren yolu var; Ushuaia hapishanesinde yatan mahkumlar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 1900\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda. O d\u00f6nemlerde mahkumlar\u0131 a\u011fa\u00e7 kesmeye g\u00f6t\u00fcren buharl\u0131 tren ise bug\u00fcn \u00ab\u00a0d\u00fcnyan\u0131n ucundaki tren\u00a0\u00bb ad\u0131 alt\u0131nda turistik ama\u00e7l\u0131 hizmet vermekte. Ancak parka ula\u015f\u0131m limandan belirli saatlerde kalkan minib\u00fcslerle m\u00fcmk\u00fcn ve parka giri\u015f ile tren yolculu\u011fu da ayr\u0131ca \u00fccrete tabi. Bir de tren belli saatlerde i\u015fliyor. Bu mevsimde kamp atmak da m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan, bu tipide parka gitmek de pek ak\u0131ll\u0131ca g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor. T\u00fcm bu bilgilerin edinilebilece\u011fi turism ofisi ge\u00e7 a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor. Bir de para krizi var a\u015fmam\u0131z gereken, ki o en temel sorunumuz. Ushuaia\u2019daki tek t\u00fck d\u00f6viz b\u00fcrosu \u00e7ok d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck fiyattan say\u0131yor US Dolar\u2019\u0131. Bankalar ise bu i\u015fe hi\u00e7 giri\u015fmiyor. Bu sorunu \u00e7\u00f6zmek de epey zaman al\u0131yor. T\u00fcm bunlar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne bir de gezinin bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131 olumsuz hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden iptal olunca yap\u0131lacak en g\u00fczel \u015fey Martial buzuluna \u00e7\u0131kmak. Do\u011fal ortamda saatler ge\u00e7irmeye uygun k\u0131l\u0131k k\u0131yafete b\u00fcr\u00fcnd\u00fckten sonra hostel \u00f6n\u00fcne gelen taksiye yetmi\u015f bin pesos \u00f6deyerek buzulun merkezine ula\u015f\u0131yoruz. Martial asl\u0131nda tam bir buzda\u011f\u0131 de\u011fil, da\u011f\u0131n tepesindeki kal\u0131c\u0131 buz k\u00fctlesinden dolay\u0131 bu \u015fekilde an\u0131l\u0131yor. Kaymay\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenenler, profesyoneller, telesiyejler dekoru renklendirirken, en keyiflisi ayak bas\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f orman yollar\u0131na dalmak. Biraz ordan, biraz burdan derken bilinmezin pe\u015fine tak\u0131l\u0131p, tepelere do\u011fru yol al\u0131yoruz.. Ancak tipi ba\u015flay\u0131p da g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f mesafesi tamamen kaybolunca tehlikeye bula\u015fmadan g\u00fcvenli yere d\u00f6nmeyi ye\u011fliyoruz.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1No-a4aBbrB0tfb_Z48nOGippIsL3Bk_Y=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1No-a4aBbrB0tfb_Z48nOGippIsL3Bk_Y=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10RU2WrkkGe4QQ06F2RTiyuFQcqvs_6Ms=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10RU2WrkkGe4QQ06F2RTiyuFQcqvs_6Ms=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1oYfMToFKa_wyZi6GHGxK9YrlwebzZHiz=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1oYfMToFKa_wyZi6GHGxK9YrlwebzZHiz=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1vv16Qmr1VxzToSx15J8od-zSE7SgUqu-=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1vv16Qmr1VxzToSx15J8od-zSE7SgUqu-=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/17Nmd3vJwsTU3KuiVNq5QMnNKgP0LRXwm=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/17Nmd3vJwsTU3KuiVNq5QMnNKgP0LRXwm=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Merkez yedi kilometre uzakl\u0131kta. En k\u00f6t\u00fc ihtimal yoldan taksi bulur, otostop yapar, bir \u015fekilde \u015fehre tek par\u00e7a var\u0131r\u0131z. Tipi alt\u0131nda o yoku\u015f yukar\u0131 da\u011f yolunu ters y\u00f6ne inerken, yer yer g\u00f6z g\u00f6z\u00fc g\u00f6rmezken, i\u015f makineleri yolu a\u00e7arken, susay\u0131nca buz sa\u00e7aklar\u0131n\u0131 kopar\u0131p \u00e7i\u011fnerken ve eldiveni \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmemek i\u00e7in direnirken Temmuz\u2019un 23\u2019\u00fcnde d\u00fcnyan\u0131n dibindesin ve do\u011fan\u0131n sessiz huzurunu bozan tek ses ayaklar\u0131n\u0131n yumu\u015fac\u0131k kar\u0131n i\u00e7ine g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fcrken \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 huzur dolu g\u0131c\u0131rt\u0131lar. Daha iyisi ne olabilir ki?!<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1dGMDeL-yiYZmDq35qzSRRCs5d6IgQ38G=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1dGMDeL-yiYZmDq35qzSRRCs5d6IgQ38G=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/17roRDXW_EHaY1KdsKE365DyKwuzhQHH1=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/17roRDXW_EHaY1KdsKE365DyKwuzhQHH1=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1USc-lUUSKWlsgq05T1gyPcbxOUFPGcm2=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1USc-lUUSKWlsgq05T1gyPcbxOUFPGcm2=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1H2Vl0nuN0SLL8a4QBVimc1OLQdHR6f8J=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1H2Vl0nuN0SLL8a4QBVimc1OLQdHR6f8J=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Ng3N9hPE30d6uOTd-lFmPaGFq1DOAjgO=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Ng3N9hPE30d6uOTd-lFmPaGFq1DOAjgO=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">T\u00fcm bunlara tezat olarak merkezde bekleyen ger\u00e7eklerle y\u00fczle\u015fme fasl\u0131 gelip \u00e7at\u0131yor. \u00d6ncelikli olarak \u0131s\u0131nma, dinlenme ve beslenme gereksinimleri. Sonras\u0131nda ise her \u015feyden daha \u00f6nemli olan bir sonraki rotan\u0131n planlanmas\u0131. Gezinin buradan sonraki k\u0131sm\u0131 saatler, belki de g\u00fcnler s\u00fcrecek otob\u00fcs yolculuklar\u0131yla ger\u00e7ekle\u015fecek. Gezinin plan\u0131na g\u00f6re buradan sonra gidilecek Puerto Natales olumsuz hava ko\u015fullar\u0131na kurban gitti bile. Bu kar ve tipide en iyisi direkt El Calafate\u2019ye gitmek olacak. Ancak seferler hava ve yol ko\u015fullar\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden sabah 05:00\u2019de ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Ve bileti satan \u00e7ikolata renkli dostumuz Per\u015fembe sabah\u0131n\u0131 diretirsek on yedi saat s\u00fcrecek yolculu\u011fun \u0131s\u0131t\u0131c\u0131s\u0131z otob\u00fcste ger\u00e7ekle\u015fece\u011finin alt\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7izip, bu so\u011fukta kesinlikle tavsiye etmiyor. \u00dcstelik biletin fiyat\u0131 \u0131s\u0131t\u0131c\u0131l\u0131 olanla ayn\u0131\u00a0! D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum da THY\u2019de her t\u00fcrl\u00fc konfor e\u015fli\u011finde bitmek bilmeyen on yedi saatlik yolculuk acaba otob\u00fcste nas\u0131l ge\u00e7er?! \u0130\u015fin i\u00e7inde me\u015fhur Ruta 40 varsa her t\u00fcrl\u00fc ge\u00e7er! Vars\u0131n ge\u00e7 olsun, g\u00fc\u00e7 olmas\u0131n deyip Cuma sabah\u0131 05:00 otob\u00fcs\u00fcne al\u0131yoruz bileti.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Eeee, Ushuaia\u2019da fazladan bir gece daha \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re bunu de\u011ferlendirip, bunca so\u011fuk ve yorgunlu\u011fun \u00fczerine g\u00fczel bir ziyafet \u00e7ekmek i\u00e7in markete gidip, lomo, domates ve \u015eili \u015farab\u0131 al\u0131yoruz. \u00d6te yandan Buenos Aires\u2019de du\u015f ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m buz gibi sudan olsa gerek ci\u011ferlerimde volkanik patlamalar olu\u015fuyor. So\u011fuk suyla du\u015fu her mevsim severim ama galiba burada so\u011fu\u011fun ayar\u0131 al\u0131\u015fk\u0131n oldu\u011fumdan bir ka\u00e7 seviye fazlayd\u0131. Ara ara nefesim kesilircesine \u00f6ks\u00fcr\u00fck n\u00f6betleri geliyor. \u0130la\u00e7 i\u00e7mekten de nefret etti\u011fimden \u015fifay\u0131 \u015eili \u015farab\u0131nda ar\u0131yorum. Bu azimle telef olmadan Perito Moreno\u2019ya da ayak basar\u0131m evelallah \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1rz2__wwKytqW9eFv1x2D9Er9xS1T6Se_=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1rz2__wwKytqW9eFv1x2D9Er9xS1T6Se_=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GI0mAboACh8UXdhJtKNRBL-aYIUmiGWM=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GI0mAboACh8UXdhJtKNRBL-aYIUmiGWM=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hostel\u2019in s\u0131cac\u0131k ortam\u0131nda soyunup, d\u00f6k\u00fcnerek, ellerinle haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131n yeme\u011fi yemek nas\u0131l tarif edilmez g\u00fczelliktedir. Ama daha da g\u00fczeli soban\u0131n yan\u0131ba\u015f\u0131na yay\u0131l\u0131p \u015eili \u015farab\u0131n\u0131 a\u011fz\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcrken kar\u015f\u0131daki pencereden sokak lambas\u0131 alt\u0131nda deli gibi d\u00f6nen kar tanelerini seyretmek. \u00c7ok mutluyum \u00e7oookkk\u2026 \u0130ki y\u0131l \u00f6nce, hemen hemen bu zamanlarda Kuzey Kutup \u00e7emberini a\u015f\u0131p, kuzeydeki en u\u00e7 kara par\u00e7as\u0131nda, g\u00fcne\u015fin batmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 gecelerden birinde bir gece ge\u00e7irmi\u015ftim. \u015eimdi ise d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en g\u00fcneyindeyim, dibinde. Cehennemin dibine gitmemi dileyen k\u0131skan\u00e7lara inat! Ohhhh, mis gibi so\u011fuk, mis gibi kar, mis gibi Patagonya\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hosteldeki odam\u0131z 4 ki\u015fi payla\u015f\u0131ml\u0131 ve oda arkada\u015f\u0131m\u0131z Amerikal\u0131, \u015fi\u015fman bir postac\u0131. Dizlerindeki rahats\u0131zl\u0131ktan mal\u00fblen emekli olmu\u015f ve s\u0131caktan nefret etti\u011fi i\u00e7in yaz\u0131 ge\u00e7irmek \u00fczere buraya gelmi\u015f. San\u0131r\u0131m burada yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 tek \u015fey k\u00fct\u00fcphaneye gidip internetten yararlanmak ve film seyretmek. Geri kalan zamanlarda da yemek yiyor olsa gerek. T\u00fcm bunlardan kime ne elbet de, abla uyurken k\u00fckr\u00fcyor. Aslanlar aleminin Pavarotti\u2019siyle ayn\u0131 odada uyumak pek kolay olmuyor elbette\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1NCXuvqW23yitI5zJBUtuGFBns4cflukq=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1NCXuvqW23yitI5zJBUtuGFBns4cflukq=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ushuaia\u2019n\u0131n en \u00e7ok sabahlar\u0131n\u0131 sevdim. Belki de buraya sabah geldi\u011fim i\u00e7in. G\u00fcnayd\u0131n demek i\u00e7in insan\u0131n saat 09:00 olmas\u0131n\u0131 bekleyesi geliyor. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc 09:00 olmadan g\u00fcn aym\u0131yor, sokak lambalar\u0131 s\u00f6nm\u00fcyor burada. Hani okula gitmek i\u00e7in uyanm\u0131\u015f da s\u0131cac\u0131k evinden buz gibi soka\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kmaya k\u0131yamayan, o ev keyfini uzatmak i\u00e7in d\u00fcnyalar\u0131 verebilecek \u00f6\u011frenci psikolojisi vard\u0131r ya\u2026 \u0130\u015fte \u00f6ylesi h\u0131nz\u0131r bir keyif kapl\u0131yor kahvalt\u0131 sofras\u0131n\u0131. Soba ba\u015f\u0131nda, ekmeklerin yan\u0131k kokusuna d\u0131\u015far\u0131da lapa lapa ya\u011fan kar\u0131n sokak lambas\u0131 alt\u0131ndaki g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu tela\u015fs\u0131z kahvalt\u0131 \u00ab\u00a0huzur\u00a0\u00bb kelimesinin betimsel a\u00e7\u0131klamas\u0131 olsa gerek. Hen\u00fcz g\u00fcn de a\u011farmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan saat \u00e7ok erkenmi\u015f gibi geliyor\u00a0; bir yerlere, bir \u015feylere yeti\u015fme kayg\u0131s\u0131 uykuya yat\u0131yor ve soba ba\u015f\u0131 \u00e7ay keyfi saat\u00a011:00\u2019e kadar s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Zaten bu karda yap\u0131lacak \u00e7ok bir \u015fey de yok.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ushuaia\u2019da nam salm\u0131\u015f bir hapishane var, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde m\u00fczeye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Vakti zaman\u0131nda az\u0131l\u0131 haydutlar\u0131n, \u00fcnl\u00fc politikac\u0131lar\u0131n, bilim insanlar\u0131n\u0131n, sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n cezaland\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir hapishane. \u0130\u00e7eri girmek i\u00e7in ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 y\u00fcz yirmi pesos \u00f6demek gerekiyor. Ayn\u0131 biletle bir deniz m\u00fczesiyle sanat m\u00fczesi de gezilebiliyor. Bu para verilir mi, eder mi, etmez mi derken pek de alternatif olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan kendimizi i\u00e7eride buluveriyoruz. Hapishane ortam\u0131 ve ya\u015fam\u0131 m\u00fczele\u015ftirilmi\u015f burada. H\u00fccrelerde o d\u00f6nemde yatan \u00f6nemli mahkumlar\u0131n heykelleri var. Duvarlara as\u0131lm\u0131\u015f a\u00e7\u0131klamalar her ne kadar ayd\u0131nlat\u0131c\u0131 olsa da ger\u00e7ek bir hapishane havas\u0131 solutmuyor gezenlere. S\u0131cak, iyi ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yapay bir ortam. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnsenize\u00a0; hapishanede birka\u00e7 saat ge\u00e7irebilmek i\u00e7in \u00fcst\u00fcne para \u00f6d\u00fcyorsunuz, hem de az buz say\u0131lmayacak bir para.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1qTwa_Jf-1Xr5N3Zl4VfS3N4ysA_Rxyhx=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1qTwa_Jf-1Xr5N3Zl4VfS3N4ysA_Rxyhx=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12PDnmAcUX86JAmqkOMdZ8uWTONqYmAPN=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12PDnmAcUX86JAmqkOMdZ8uWTONqYmAPN=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Beni en \u00e7ok etkileyen, devlet politikas\u0131na ters d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in buraya d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f rekt\u00f6r, dinlemekten usanmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m Carlos Gardel ve on alt\u0131 ya\u015f\u0131nda, buldu\u011fu her f\u0131rsatta \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 \u00f6ld\u00fcren ve ak\u0131l almaz su\u00e7lar i\u015fleyen psikopat Cayetano Santos Godino oldu.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Zoe5FRSUoic6BDXylP6Eg4hdiKuXR6EF=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Zoe5FRSUoic6BDXylP6Eg4hdiKuXR6EF=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/19l5zplk8S8-9WUOxi3qNfnP_C7jwBH6D=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/19l5zplk8S8-9WUOxi3qNfnP_C7jwBH6D=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pNBATDCFVJpqc_B_0jvLF-D3xz_C3vZm=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pNBATDCFVJpqc_B_0jvLF-D3xz_C3vZm=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u0130\u015fin \u00f6z\u00fc buras\u0131 pek de o paray\u0131 verip gezmeye de\u011fer bir yer de\u011fil. Hatta bana g\u00f6re tek g\u00f6rmeye de\u011fer k\u0131s\u0131m son derece kenarda, k\u00f6\u015fede kalm\u0131\u015f be\u015finci k\u0131s\u0131m. As\u0131l hapishaneyi t\u00fcm \u00fcrk\u00fcn\u00e7l\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ve so\u011fuklu\u011fuyla yans\u0131tan tek yer. Bir de fazla \u00f6n plana \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan m\u0131, yoksa \u00e7ok so\u011fuk olu\u015fundan m\u0131 bilmiyorum ama neredeyse hi\u00e7 ra\u011fbet g\u00f6rmedi\u011finden foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek i\u00e7in son derece uygun. Foto\u011fraf ne ki\u00a0; film \u00e7ekilir orada.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1LhRkcBheTvt7_1O14dE_IeYcnzpW3KPP=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1LhRkcBheTvt7_1O14dE_IeYcnzpW3KPP=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1y4qrHhx5Qg_kwHalpd1QG6P6CCUU5qC_=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1y4qrHhx5Qg_kwHalpd1QG6P6CCUU5qC_=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1gnE5QJ4tGZYs4jtpO0GpEUBa6h4EKb9-=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1gnE5QJ4tGZYs4jtpO0GpEUBa6h4EKb9-=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Sonu\u00e7 olarak hapishane m\u00fcze \u00ab\u00a0Ushuaia Jail and Military Prison\u00a0\u00bb bana g\u00f6re o paraya de\u011fecek bir etkinlik de\u011filse de ziyaret\u00e7isi olduk\u00e7a fazla. Belki de benim gezi anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131ma \u00e7ok uymuyordur. \u00a0Ho\u015f, onun yerine yap\u0131labilecek ba\u015fka bir \u015fey de yoktu \u015fehirde hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 nedeniyle.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Mideden a\u00e7l\u0131k sinyalleri gelmeye ba\u015flay\u0131nca rotay\u0131 hostele \u00e7eviriyoruz. Zira bilmedi\u011fin memlekette en kaliteli ve dama\u011f\u0131na uygun yemek kendi haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131nd\u0131r. Bu ak\u015fam\u0131n men\u00fcs\u00fcnde peceto, domates ve Quilmes var. Bu memlekette en alas\u0131ndan bir kilo et bir paket makarnadan daha ucuz. \u00dcstelik pi\u015ftik\u00e7e ocaktan al\u0131nan etleri mutfak tezgah\u0131nda ayak \u00fcst\u00fc yerken pencereden seyredilen tipi yan\u0131nda hediyesi \ud83d\ude09 M\u0130S gibi Ushuaia, M\u0130S gibi kar\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1ZureXmOfEOopoddQrG2Afn2knHuYpj_0=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1ZureXmOfEOopoddQrG2Afn2knHuYpj_0=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/19xiPjbKW1bgLbjR1Xgay0-kgIacvFdPs=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/19xiPjbKW1bgLbjR1Xgay0-kgIacvFdPs=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Hh6doXtQv3UPr_P6Pu9BlXRwvtLiHBxW=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Hh6doXtQv3UPr_P6Pu9BlXRwvtLiHBxW=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hele bir de \u00fcst\u00fcne yap\u0131lan soba ba\u015f\u0131 keyfi\u2026 Biraz internet, biraz Fabio\u2019yla lak lak, biraz da sabah 05:00\u2019deki yolculuk heyecan\u0131 derken gece bitiyor ve k\u00fckreme senfonili uyku fasl\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Bir ba\u015fka sorunsalsa ablayla k\u0131ran k\u0131rana ge\u00e7en radyat\u00f6r m\u00fccadelemiz. Malum, kendisi s\u0131caktan ka\u00e7\u0131p buralara geldi\u011fi i\u00e7in -5 derece so\u011fukta bile kalorifere tahamm\u00fcl edemiyor. Ho\u015f, uykumdan uyan\u0131p uyan\u0131p yemek yesem ben de belki istemezdim ama biz insan \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcyle besleniyoruz ve gece s\u0131cak bir yerde uyumay\u0131 tercih ediyoruz \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Bir yandan evsizlik, barks\u0131zl\u0131k kayg\u0131s\u0131, di\u011fer yandan kafada havaalan\u0131na gitme, bagaj vermeden u\u00e7a\u011fa s\u0131v\u0131\u015fma planlar\u0131\u2026 derken bir s\u00fcr\u00fc belirsizlik i\u00e7erisinde risk alman\u0131n verdi\u011fi tarif edilmez zevk ile 9 Temmuz Caddesi\u2019ndeki otob\u00fcs duraklar\u0131ndan zafer mutlulu\u011fuyla bindi\u011fimiz 45 numaral\u0131 belediye otob\u00fcs\u00fc \u015f\u00f6f\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcn kendi dilinde sarf etti\u011fi bir tomar laf\u0131n \u00fczerine \u00f6nce OK deyip, birka\u00e7 durak sonra Retiro\u2019da [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-574","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/574","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=574"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/574\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":881,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/574\/revisions\/881"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=574"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=574"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=574"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}