{"id":583,"date":"2017-06-28T15:44:47","date_gmt":"2017-06-28T12:44:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/burdayiz.heliohost.org\/?p=583"},"modified":"2025-09-15T19:54:10","modified_gmt":"2025-09-15T16:54:10","slug":"patagonya-el-calafate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/?p=583","title":{"rendered":"Patagonya &#8211; El Calafate"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"responsive-map\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: 0;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d163007.55893459046!2d-72.43799490104128!3d-50.32937982405918!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0xbdbb0cc0138f62cb%3A0x30d4035d88e4dc69!2sEl+Calafate%2C+Santa+Cruz+eyaleti%2C+Arjantin!5e0!3m2!1str!2str!4v1498653596557\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Sabah 04:00\u2019de \u00e7alan saat alarm\u0131yla g\u00fcn erkenden ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Bug\u00fcn g\u00fcnlerden yol ; \u00fcstelik on yedi saat s\u00fcrecek, otob\u00fcsle. Rotam\u0131z Bs As\u2019den ba\u015flay\u0131p, Ushuaia Milli park\u0131\u2019nda son bulan \u00fcnl\u00fc Ruta 3 \u00fczerinden, Rio Gallegos aktarmal\u0131 El Calafate.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Otob\u00fcs liman b\u00f6lgesindeki YDF benzinli\u011finin yan\u0131ndaki bo\u015f alandan kalk\u0131yor. Beagle kanal\u0131ndan gelen arktik so\u011fuk yetmiyormu\u015f gibi bagajlar\u0131 yerle\u015ftiren yerden bitme, b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131 \u015euayip\u2019in s\u0131rt \u00e7antam\u0131n \u00fczerine be\u015f kat\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde, g\u00fclle gibi bir \u00e7anta koymas\u0131 burun deliklerimin geni\u015flemesine ve beynime fazladan oksijen gitmesine neden oluyor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Havan\u0131n ayd\u0131nlanmas\u0131na d\u00f6rt saat var, d\u0131\u015far\u0131s\u0131 kar, k\u0131yamet, ve \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde on yedi saatlik yolculuk var. T\u00fcm bu ko\u015fullar\u0131 bir araya getirdi\u011fimizde uyumaktan g\u00fczel ne olabilir ki?! Otob\u00fcs neredeyse be\u015finci s\u0131n\u0131f kalitede ve ancak montla oturulabiliyorken bir de \u00fcst\u00fcne bagajlardan sorumlu \u015euayip direksiyona ge\u00e7mesin mi\u2026 Bitmez bu yolculuk, bakal\u0131m ne maceralar var g\u00fcn\u00fcn men\u00fcs\u00fcnde???<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Otob\u00fcs bir yerde duruyor, herkes a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 iniyor, acaba ne oluyor diye anlamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131p, tuvalet ararken federal polisle g\u00fcnayd\u0131nla\u015f\u0131rken buluyoruz kendimizi. Yolculu\u011fun sand\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zdan da keyifli ge\u00e7ecek belli ki. Pasaportlar\u0131 istiyor, bir de dok\u00fcman. Pasaport tamam da dok\u00fcmandan kast\u0131 ne acaba ? Me\u011fer otob\u00fcs biletinin i\u00e7inde doldurulmas\u0131 gereken baz\u0131 evraklar varm\u0131\u015f. Neyse ki g\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc bir polis ; masas\u0131n\u0131n kenar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterip, bir de kalem \u00f6d\u00fcn\u00e7 veriyor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">M\u00fch\u00fcrler vuruluyor, tekrar herkes otob\u00fcse biniyor, yola devam\u2026 \u015euayip tek tek herkese \u00ab Fruta var m\u0131 \u00bb diye sorup, doldurulmak \u00fczere yeni bir belge veriyor. Daha \u00f6nce okumu\u015ftum \u015eili s\u0131n\u0131r ge\u00e7i\u015flerinde yiyecek konusunda a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 titiz davrand\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131; \u00f6zellikle de meyve ve \u00e7i\u011f sebzeye bomba muamelesi yapt\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131. Bunun nedeni ise topraklar\u0131na ait olmayan yabanc\u0131 bir tohumun burada yeti\u015fmesini istememeleriymi\u015f. \u015e\u00f6yle bir etraf\u0131ma bak\u0131yorum da, ucu buca\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen bu \u00e7orak topraklara elinle ekip, g\u00f6z\u00fcnle baksan ne yeti\u015ftirebilirsin acaba?\u2026 Neyse, kural kurald\u0131r. Vallahi \u00e7antada meyve, sebze, tohum ve de on bin US $ ya da e\u015fde\u011ferinden fazlas\u0131 yok diye imzal\u0131yoruz belgeleri. \u0130\u015fin k\u00f6t\u00fcs\u00fc benim el bagaj\u0131 olan s\u0131rt \u00e7antamda ak\u015fam hostelden a\u015f\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m, kafam b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde hormonlu bir elma var! Nereye sallasam, ba\u015f \u00fcst\u00fc rafa atsam da kim koyduya gitse. Asl\u0131nda i\u00e7imden ge\u00e7en tek \u015fey \u015euayip\u2019in \u00e7antas\u0131na koymak ya\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1n-IzbZu4Z23OdM5-U_B8CWVdbK6yBlJJ=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1n-IzbZu4Z23OdM5-U_B8CWVdbK6yBlJJ=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Elman\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bir de yiyecek torbas\u0131 var ki, evlerden \u0131rak. \u0130\u00e7inde 2 \u015fi\u015fe \u015eili \u015farab\u0131, domates, peynir, ha\u015flanm\u0131\u015f yumurta ve hatta pi\u015fmi\u015f et var. Hi\u00e7 \u00f6yle \u00ab Yok art\u0131k ! \u00bb falan demeyin ; on yedi saat durmadan yol aca\u011fa\u011f\u0131z ku\u015f u\u00e7maz, kervan ge\u00e7mez pampalarda. Ne market var, ne benzinci.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">En kesirme ve etkin \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm erken kahvalt\u0131. \u015eili \u015farab\u0131yla kahvalt\u0131 yapmak da varm\u0131\u015f yok hikayelerime yaz\u0131lacak. Ancak, elma hala ba\u015fa bela; sanki bomba m\u00fcbarek. \u00dcstelik birebir \u00ab fruta \u00bb familyas\u0131ndan. G\u00f6r\u00fcnen o ki, yemeden kurtulamayaca\u011f\u0131z kendisinden ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Otob\u00fcs tekrar duruyor, tekrar herkes iniyor, hem de bu sefer el bagajlar\u0131yla. Ve tekrar federal polisle ha\u015f\u0131r ne\u015firiz. Az \u00f6nceki muhabbette Arjantin s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f\u0131z. \u015eimdi ise \u015eili topraklar\u0131na giriyoruz. Meyve, sebze yoktur beyanl\u0131 belgeleri pasaportla beraber polise veriyoruz. Giri\u015f damgalar\u0131 bas\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra kar\u015f\u0131 binadaki X-Ray cihaz\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcnde s\u0131raya giriyoruz. Zulada \u015fang\u0131r \u015fungur biri a\u00e7\u0131k, di\u011feri a\u00e7\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f \u015farap iki \u015fi\u015fesi ve koca bir Quilmes var. Etler zaten bir ku\u00e7uya ziyafet olacak. Neyse ki bu a\u015famay\u0131 da vukuats\u0131zca atlat\u0131p yeniden yola koyuluyoruz.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">U\u00e7suz bucaks\u0131z pampalar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda toprak bir yolda ilerliyoruz. Etraf\u0131m\u0131zda otlayan patagonik hayvanlar var; guanaco ve koca kafal\u0131, y\u00fcn yuma\u011f\u0131 koyunlar. Tek t\u00fck ara\u00e7 d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ne bir d\u00fckkan var ne de insan. Uzun bir kuyru\u011fun sonunda duruyor otob\u00fcs. Yol mu kapal\u0131 diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken Macellan Bo\u011faz\u0131\u2019n\u0131 ge\u00e7mek i\u00e7in bekledi\u011fimizi \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. Otob\u00fcs gemiye \u00e7\u0131karken t\u00fcm yolcular inip, y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gemiye biniyor ve darac\u0131k bir salona \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorlar. Kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeki y\u0131\u011f\u0131lman\u0131n sebebi bilet kuyru\u011fuymu\u015f. Bizim otob\u00fcsten kimse olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re \u00fccret otob\u00fcs biletine dahil olsa gerek. Zaten bilet ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 seksen pesos, o da i\u00e7inde oluversin bi zahmet.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1X2NF98Crltbzysf0dZEEZOyBQzhf5-qu=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1X2NF98Crltbzysf0dZEEZOyBQzhf5-qu=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Mh5eD-Z8IRRl9WlAOOASKryXjtpaJp4v=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Mh5eD-Z8IRRl9WlAOOASKryXjtpaJp4v=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Kar\u015f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131ya var\u0131p da otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcze yeniden binerken her birimizin eline bir kumanya kutusu tutu\u015fturuluyor. Bu arada \u00f6\u011freniyorum ki, Ushuaia\u2019dan Rio Gallegos\u2019a kadar Ruta 3 motosiklet\u00e7ilerin favori yoluymu\u015f. Bir an i\u00e7in bu yolculu\u011fu iki teker \u00fczerinde yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 hayal ettim de, hi\u00e7 bitmesin isterdim muhtemelen.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Otob\u00fcs yeniden s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131s\u0131nda. Bu sefer \u015eili\u2019den \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p Arjantin\u2019e giri\u015f yapaca\u011f\u0131z. Ne tuhaf bir co\u011frafya ; Arjantin topraklar\u0131nda bir \u015fehirden ba\u015fka bir \u015fehire gitmek i\u00e7in ba\u015fka bir \u00fclkenin topraklar\u0131na girip, yolun bir k\u0131sm\u0131na oradan devam etmek gerekiyor. \u015eili\u2019den \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f olduk\u00e7a sorunsuz, ancak \u015fimdi de Arjantin\u2019e girmek i\u00e7in bir saatten fazla bekliyoruz. \u00dcstelik ne bekledi\u011fimizi bilmeden, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc pasaportlar\u0131m\u0131z \u00e7oktan m\u00fch\u00fcrlenmi\u015f bi\u00e7imde geri verildi. Bekleme k\u0131sm\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131c\u0131 bir hal al\u0131yor. \u015euayip \u00f6n kap\u0131y\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in otob\u00fcs\u00fcn i\u00e7i buzhaneye d\u00f6n\u00fcyor ve ben o elmay\u0131 onun \u00e7antas\u0131na koymad\u0131\u011f\u0131m i\u00e7in bir kez daha pi\u015fman oluyorum.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ak\u015fam \u00e7\u00f6kmeye ba\u015flarken Rio Gallegos otogar\u0131na giriyor otob\u00fcs. \u0130ki saat mola sonras\u0131nda yolculu\u011fun d\u00f6rt saat s\u00fcrecek ikinci etab\u0131 ba\u015flayacak. Otogar\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir Carrefour var. Bu so\u011fukta hem zaman ge\u00e7irmek hem de yolluk bir \u015feyler almak i\u00e7in daha iyisi ne olabilir ki?<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1NNxaybWWLHXIUI3C0C2kU0-M5HTD_EhL=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1NNxaybWWLHXIUI3C0C2kU0-M5HTD_EhL=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Yolun ikinci etab\u0131 m\u00fccadeleli ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Otob\u00fcsler \u00fc\u00e7er be\u015fer otogara geliyor, yolcular dolu\u015fuyor. Yolcudan \u00e7ok u\u011furlamaya gelen var. Yolcusunu alan otob\u00fcs gidiyor ve hemen yerine yenisi geliyor. Otob\u00fcslerin \u00f6n\u00fcnde nereye gitti\u011fi yazm\u0131yor, ingilizce konu\u015fan kimse yok. Tavuk gibi ortada dolanan biz gibilerin imdad\u0131na da mavi tulumlu amca yeti\u015fiyor. \u00ab El Calafate \u00bb deyince kendi dilinde otob\u00fcs\u00fcn hen\u00fcz gelmedi\u011fini, birazdan gelece\u011fini anlat\u0131yor. Bu demek oluyor ki \u00ab Burdan ayr\u0131lma \u00e7ingene tavu\u011fu, ben seninle ilgilenicem. \u00bb Amcan\u0131n elinde bir balya liste var, hangi otob\u00fcse kimler binecek ondan soruluyor yani. Birka\u00e7 dakika sonra sabahki otob\u00fcste beraber seyahat etti\u011fimiz Brezilyal\u0131 \u00e7ocuk \u00e7at pat ingilizcesiyle otob\u00fcs\u00fcn geldi\u011fini, ancak yol kapal\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in ne zaman kalkaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n belli olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Yar\u0131m saatlik bir gecikmeyle otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz kalk\u0131yor. En \u00f6n s\u0131radaki yerimiz olduk\u00e7a konforlu say\u0131l\u0131r. Ancak d\u00f6rt saatlik yolculuk hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden kabusa d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. T\u00fcm camlar buz tutuyor. Is\u0131tma sistemi bana m\u0131s\u0131n demiyor. Kar pantalonu, kar montu, termal \u00e7orap ve i\u00e7likle i\u00e7 organlar\u0131m\u0131n b\u00fcz\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc hissediyor, adeta ac\u0131 \u00e7ekiyorum. T\u00fcm bunlar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne iki kez de jandarma ve polis kontrol\u00fcnden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Az\u0131l\u0131 haydutlar\u0131n \u00fclkesinde mi dola\u015f\u0131yoruz yoksa g\u00fcvenli\u011fin tavan yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir memlekette mi bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc anlayam\u0131yorum. T\u00fcm bu kontroller boyunca otob\u00fcs\u00fcn kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131k olup, i\u00e7erideki \u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ka\u00e7 derece daha d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc s\u00f6ylememe gerek yok san\u0131r\u0131m\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1fv0AJoSNkJjl0Ny0SPE6GWTS9RVDkVLl=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1fv0AJoSNkJjl0Ny0SPE6GWTS9RVDkVLl=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Gece yar\u0131s\u0131 vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z El Calafate\u2019de daha \u00f6nce hi\u00e7 g\u00f6rmedi\u011fim bir so\u011fukla uyan\u0131yorum. \u015e\u00f6f\u00f6r eksi on bir derece oldu\u011fundan s\u00f6z ediyorsa da hissedilen \u00e7ok daha fazla. Her taraf buz. Bagaj\u0131n\u0131 alan gidiyor. Bir anda hayalet \u015fehire d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor otogar. Hostele bu saatte, bu so\u011fukta, buzlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde, s\u0131rtta \u00e7antalarla y\u00fcr\u00fcmek insan \u00f6tesi bir m\u00fccadele olur. \u00dcstelik hostele geli\u015f saatini 01:00 olarak belirttik. Hayalet sokaktan \u00e7\u0131kagelen bir taksi h\u0131z\u0131r gibi yeti\u015fiyor imdad\u0131m\u0131za. Merkezin epey d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki America del Sur Hostel\u2019a gidi\u015f k\u0131rk pesos tutuyor. D\u00f6rt ki\u015filik payla\u015f\u0131ml\u0131 odada konaklaman\u0131n bedeli ise ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 y\u00fcz yirmi pesos. Odan\u0131n i\u00e7inde du\u015f ve tuvalet de var, \u00fcstelik i\u00e7erisi s\u0131cac\u0131k. O buzul gecenin b\u00f6ylesi bir mutlu sona ba\u011flanmas\u0131ndan daha huzurlu ne olabilir ki? Uyku tabi ki ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ve fakat o huzur dolu uyku kabus gibi bir ger\u00e7ekle son bulur mu?! Kamera \u00e7antas\u0131 yok! Ve muhtemelen otob\u00fcste kald\u0131 L \u0130\u00e7erisinde yepyeni bir Sony foto\u011fraf makinesi, hen\u00fcz ilk \u015farj\u0131 bile bitmemi\u015f bir GoPro 3+, tomarla haf\u0131za kart\u0131, mobil \u015farj cihaz\u0131, araban\u0131n anahtar\u0131 ve belki de hepsinden daha y\u0131k\u0131c\u0131, telafisi m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmayan yedi y\u00fcz adet foto\u011fraf. Buzuldan da dondurucu bir etki yarat\u0131yor sabah sabah bu \u015fok\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Memlekette otel resepsiyonunda bile ingilizce konu\u015fana rastlamak zor oldu\u011funa g\u00f6re durumu \u00e7\u00f6zebilecek tek ki\u015fi hostel g\u00f6revlisi bitli \u00e7ocuk. Hemen otogar\u0131 aray\u0131p durumu detaylar\u0131yla yetkiliye aktar\u0131yor. Sonra da bizi otogara g\u00f6t\u00fcrecek taksiyi \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131yor. Ak\u015fam k\u0131rk pesos tutan yol sabah yirmi dokuz pesos\u2026 Mesai saati indirimi herhalde\u2026 Hemen telefonla g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fclen kad\u0131n\u0131 buluyoruz. Otob\u00fcs temizlik i\u00e7in ba\u015fka bir yere g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ve temizlik\u00e7iler 09:00\u2019da geleceklermi\u015f. Onlar gelmeden haber al\u0131namazm\u0131\u015f \u00e7antan\u0131n orada olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan. Madem yapacak bir \u015fey o halde Perito Moreno\u2019ya gidip biraz daha \u00fc\u015f\u00fcyelim. Bu arada ak\u015fama da Bariloche yollar\u0131nda olmam\u0131z laz\u0131m. \u00ab Past\u0131rmal\u0131 kurufas\u00fclye de istermisiniz \u00bb diyesi normal olacak yetkili bayan hi\u00e7 baymadan planlay\u0131veriyor her \u015feyi. Perito Moreno\u2019ya 08:30, 09:00 ve 09:30\u2019da otob\u00fcs var. E\u011fer 08:30\u2019dakine binersek 16:00\u2019da kalkacak Bariloche otob\u00fcs\u00fcne rahatl\u0131kla yeti\u015febilece\u011fimizi s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 iki y\u00fcz yirmi pesos kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131nda 08:30\u2019da kalkan Los Glacieros otob\u00fcs\u00fcne \u00f6n koltu\u011fa iki bilet kesiyor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hava hen\u00fcz karanl\u0131k, etraf bembeyaz buz.Yol buz pisti gibi. Manzara muhte\u015fem. G\u00fcn, s\u0131ra s\u0131ra dizilmi\u015f, bembeyaz da\u011flar\u0131n \u00fczerine do\u011farken g\u00fcne\u015fin ilk \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 buz k\u00fctlelerine vurduk\u00e7a g\u00f6rsel bir \u015f\u00f6lene d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Yol y\u0131lan gibi k\u0131vr\u0131la k\u0131vr\u0131la uzuyor. Los Glacieros Milli Park\u0131 olduk\u00e7a geni\u015f bir arazi. \u0130\u00e7eri girmek i\u00e7in ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 iki y\u00fcz on pesos \u00f6demek gerekiyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1oUi-hbYrwI7DUft7HK6p6vXzVl68U4G8=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1oUi-hbYrwI7DUft7HK6p6vXzVl68U4G8=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Perito Moreno buzulu daha ilk g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fte insan\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fcleyecek g\u00fczellikte. \u0130ki y\u00fcz yetmi\u015f iki metrekareye yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f dev bir buzul k\u00fctlesi. I\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131na g\u00f6re yer yer beyaz, mavi ve ye\u015filimsi bir renge b\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcyor. T\u0131pk\u0131 de\u011ferli bir ta\u015f gibi; g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 bir g\u00fczelli\u011fi var. Bence kesinikle d\u00fcnyan\u0131n yeni yedi harikas\u0131ndan biri olmay\u0131 hak ediyor. 80\u2019lerin ba\u015f\u0131nda UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras Listesi\u2019ne girmi\u015f. Kesinlikle bug\u00fcne kadar g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm Igua\u00e7u \u015felaleleri, Cangoo ma\u011faralar\u0131, Halong k\u00f6rfezi, Sahra \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fc beni bu kadar etkilememi\u015fti.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1JTukq3TLvNAFLQ2HU1PSlKp71560dTob=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1JTukq3TLvNAFLQ2HU1PSlKp71560dTob=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1nYcBrSBpGWfbjFyvsMacMc6IDSamH3Yt=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1nYcBrSBpGWfbjFyvsMacMc6IDSamH3Yt=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1ly4NL7CPumpm5qPbwGzFmYslzzdwvdNq=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1ly4NL7CPumpm5qPbwGzFmYslzzdwvdNq=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Buzulu \u00e7e\u015fitli a\u00e7\u0131lardan g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn; kademeli y\u00fckseklikte seyir teraslar\u0131 ve bu teraslar aras\u0131nda kaymadan, kolayl\u0131kla y\u00fcr\u00fcnebilen yollar var. Ancak, en g\u00fczel a\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 yakalamak i\u00e7in buzula g\u00fcvenli bir mesafede yakla\u015fan teknelere binmek gerek. Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 y\u00fcz yirmi pesos \u00f6deyerek kapal\u0131 teknelerle, \u00fc\u015f\u00fcmeden buzulun dibine kadar gidebilir, hatta \u00ab buzula geldim, so\u011fu\u011funu ci\u011ferlerimde hissetmezsem neye yarar? \u00bb derseniz g\u00fcverteye \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p Perito Moreno\u2019yu hem g\u00f6rsel hem de iklimsel ba\u011flamda doya doya ya\u015fayabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10sNp1DK7qbLygoOx8ZG0e0kZnFMCbv6j=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10sNp1DK7qbLygoOx8ZG0e0kZnFMCbv6j=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1YzrP5aYSPT5LxwNPB0A9No9dqJV10mfo=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1YzrP5aYSPT5LxwNPB0A9No9dqJV10mfo=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/15gEyNVZX1q9W64_9-pLPDMGmNlxVrEY9=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/15gEyNVZX1q9W64_9-pLPDMGmNlxVrEY9=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BIXxNAFwd99ZFCgUWYY2fqC8QxHJhCB2=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BIXxNAFwd99ZFCgUWYY2fqC8QxHJhCB2=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1K6LR3nSUpDbBxogiDTDJi3yvlAbJCnR2=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1K6LR3nSUpDbBxogiDTDJi3yvlAbJCnR2=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1vj9soVts5LAJg6VJzEXa_Wji4iAdnhhy=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1vj9soVts5LAJg6VJzEXa_Wji4iAdnhhy=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/16IkbxPiGYZbC0OeWNdNadQoDEefO_VUc=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/16IkbxPiGYZbC0OeWNdNadQoDEefO_VUc=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1jAqRQhEN06aUJl90b3z1QkF2XuGlwcSG=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1jAqRQhEN06aUJl90b3z1QkF2XuGlwcSG=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Merkezdeki otogarla buzul park\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki mesafe altm\u0131\u015f, yetmi\u015f kilometre civar\u0131nda. Ancak yolun virajl\u0131 olu\u015fu ve buzlanma nedeniyle iki saat s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Park\u0131 gezmek i\u00e7in ortalama d\u00f6rt saat veriliyor ve bunun bir saati teknede ge\u00e7iyor. Seyir teraslar\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu yerde restaurant ve hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda hediyelik e\u015fya satan ma\u011faza var.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">14:30\u2019da buzul park\u0131ndan hareket eden otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz buzla \u00f6rt\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f dar virajlarda d\u00f6ne done ilerlerken bir yandan 16:00\u2019daki Bariloche otob\u00fcs\u00fcne yeti\u015febilme tela\u015f\u0131, \u00f6te yandan kamera \u00e7antas\u0131n\u0131n ak\u0131betiyle y\u00fczle\u015fme stresi kemirip duruyor i\u00e7imizi. 15:45 itibariyle otogarday\u0131z. Ya mutlu son, ya da ac\u0131 ger\u00e7ekle y\u00fczle\u015fme an\u0131. Marga firmas\u0131n\u0131n sat\u0131\u015f ofisinde, sandalye \u00fczerinde uslu uslu bekleyen Lovepro\u2019yu g\u00f6ren g\u00f6zlerimiz \u00f6zlem dolu, umutsuz bir bekleyi\u015f sonras\u0131nda mucize sonucu sevgiliye kavu\u015fma heyecan\u0131yla parl\u0131yor. B\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00fcn yan\u0131m\u0131zda ta\u015f\u0131mamak i\u00e7in par\u00e7a ba\u015f\u0131 on pesos verip, bilet sat\u0131\u015f b\u00fcrosuna emanet etti\u011fimiz \u00e7antalar\u0131 da toparlay\u0131nca keyfimiz tavan yap\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bu seferki yolculu\u011fumuz yirmi alt\u0131 saat s\u00fcrecek. El Calafate\u2019den hareket eden otob\u00fcs Rio Gallegos\u2019u takiben Comodoro Rivadavia \u00fczerinden Bariloche\u2019ye varacak. Otob\u00fcs \u00e7ift katl\u0131 ve koltuklar \u00ab cama \u00bb, yani y\u00fcz seksen derece yat\u0131yor ve olduk\u00e7a geni\u015f. \u0130nsan kendini adeta evinde san\u0131yor. \u0130\u00e7erisi hamam gibi, konfor 4 x 4, mutlu, mesut teker d\u00f6nerken Rio Gallegos\u2019da otob\u00fcs\u00fcn de\u011fi\u015fece\u011fini anlatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor muavin, beden dili kullanarak. Zaten s\u00f6zel ileti\u015fim kurmam\u0131z s\u00f6z konusu bile de\u011fil. H\u00fcz\u00fcn ve hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla topluyoruz tas\u0131, tara\u011f\u0131. Otogarda yine bir gece \u00f6nceki curcuna. Otob\u00fcsler bir bir gelip, yolcu indirip, bindirip gidiyor. Ve \u00f6n\u00fcnde Bariloche yazan bir otob\u00fcs tam da indi\u011fimiz otob\u00fcs\u00fcn yerine yana\u015f\u0131yor. Yolculu\u011fumuz, ayn\u0131 klasmanda bir otob\u00fcste, ayn\u0131 koltuk numaras\u0131nda devam ediyor. Ka\u015f\u0131 piercingli, pantalonunun fermuar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k muavin mini pizza, k\u0131yma soslu, parmesan peynirli tortellini ve browniden olu\u015fan ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi kumanyas\u0131n\u0131 da\u011f\u0131t\u0131yor. Herkes pek mutlu.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zLP52oznHTOs4Skks98tzISUERMKECuc=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zLP52oznHTOs4Skks98tzISUERMKECuc=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Tam yeme\u011fin ortas\u0131nda otob\u00fcs duruyor ve jandarma kontrol\u00fc ba\u015fl\u0131yor. O s\u0131rada tiki muavin gelip, perdeleri kapatmam\u0131z\u0131 istiyor. Ne oluyor yahu?! Yarma yap\u0131l\u0131, her taraf\u0131 p\u0131rp\u0131rl\u0131 bir jandarma i\u00e7erde, perdeler kapat\u0131l\u0131yor; i\u015fkence mi ba\u015flayacak, yoksa bir t\u00fcr fantezi mi?! \u00c7ok ge\u00e7meden otob\u00fcs yolda t\u0131ng\u0131r m\u0131ng\u0131r giderken nereden geldi\u011fini \u00e7\u00f6zemedi\u011fim bir so\u011fuk dalgas\u0131yla camlar\u0131n bir parmak kal\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda buz tuttu\u011funu farkedip, perdeleri neden kapatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 anl\u0131yorum. Koltu\u011fumu sonuna kadar yat\u0131r\u0131p, biri biter bitmez di\u011feri ba\u015flayan filmleri dilini anlamadan seyrederken buz gibi bir iklimde, s\u0131cac\u0131k ortamda, yatak gibi koltu\u011fumda hem keyif \u00e7at\u0131yor hem de bir yerden ba\u015fka bir yere yol al\u0131yorum. M\u0130S gibi huzur\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bu kez de otob\u00fcste ak\u015fam otob\u00fcste sabah\u2026 Saatlerdir yolday\u0131z ve hi\u00e7 anlamad\u0131m nas\u0131l ge\u00e7ti\u011fini. B\u00fct\u00fcn gece deliksiz uyudum neredeyse. Ping pong topu b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde bir muffin ve \u015feker komas\u0131na girmi\u015f kahveden olu\u015fan kahvalt\u0131 kumanyas\u0131 da\u011f\u0131t\u0131l\u0131yor. Neyse ki sebilde s\u0131cak su var. \u0130yi bir gezginin \u00e7antas\u0131nda daima po\u015fet \u00e7ay, kahve ve haz\u0131r \u00e7orba bulunmal\u0131 acil durum plan\u0131 i\u00e7in. Ruta 3, Ruta 26 derken nihayet Ruta 40\u2019a giriyoruz. Ve kar ba\u015fl\u0131yor, lapa lapa oluyor, derken tipiye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Yolda bizim otob\u00fcsten ba\u015fka ne bir ara\u00e7, ne de canl\u0131 var. Karla \u00f6rt\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f pampalar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda, buz kapl\u0131 yolda d\u00fcmd\u00fcz ilerliyoruz.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BCZjx4Sf1JL9YtBugOg2zVdNwob5HaDX=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BCZjx4Sf1JL9YtBugOg2zVdNwob5HaDX=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1i312L8O1z77SXSEPk1mjOvht4MZbn-4w=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1i312L8O1z77SXSEPk1mjOvht4MZbn-4w=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Her \u015fey \u00e7ok g\u00fczel fakat yemek \u00e7\u0131k\u0131n\u0131 b\u00f6ylesi uzun bir yolculuk i\u00e7in \u00e7ok zay\u0131f. Gel de Quilmes arama Ruta 40\u2019da. Otob\u00fcs birka\u00e7 yerde yolcu indirip almak i\u00e7in duruyorsa da hayalini kurdu\u011fumuz Quilmes\u2019e epey bir ge\u00e7 ula\u015f\u0131yoruz. Yine de kavu\u015fmak g\u00fczel elbet. Otob\u00fcsteki en \u00f6n koltuk bo\u015f, d\u0131\u015far\u0131da lapa lapa kar ya\u011f\u0131yor, yollardan Ruta 40 ve buz gibi Quilmes\u2026 Hepsi biraraya gelince \u00e7ocuksu bir mutluluk dalgas\u0131 kapl\u0131yor i\u00e7imizi.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_52FplXBWHKOzNh0nS_btSSnlGXDHjnl=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_52FplXBWHKOzNh0nS_btSSnlGXDHjnl=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1FmaFMHX5XGHORgyl2CPew5Vlq-rBPRzK=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1FmaFMHX5XGHORgyl2CPew5Vlq-rBPRzK=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Otuz bir saatin sonunda, saat 23:00\u2019de Bariloche otogar\u0131na giriyor otob\u00fcs. Sa\u011fanak bir ho\u015f geldiniz sululu\u011funa bir de kalacak yerimizin olmamas\u0131 stresi ve saat ilerledik\u00e7e hostellerde muhatab bulma olas\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n azalmas\u0131 ekleniyor. Otob\u00fcsle merkeze gidip, \u015fak\u0131r \u015fak\u0131r ya\u011fan ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda sokak sokak hostel aray\u0131p, s\u0131r\u0131ls\u0131klam \u0131sland\u0131ktan sonra altm\u0131\u015f pesos taksiye feda ederek \u00e7aresizce otogara d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz. Tahtadan, konforsuzluk ilkesiyle tasarlanm\u0131\u015f banklarda sabahlamaya en elveri\u015fli pozisyonu ararken g\u00fcvenli\u011fin d\u0131\u015far\u0131y\u0131 g\u00f6sterip, otogar\u0131n t\u00fcm kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 kilitlemesi \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc darbeyi vuruyor gecenin kaderine. \u0130lk giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndaki minik hole muhtemelen evsizlere merhamet amac\u0131na y\u00f6nelik kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 konmu\u015f iki bank var. Zaten bir tanesinde uyku tulumuna girmi\u015f bir evsiz m\u0131\u015f\u0131l m\u0131\u015f\u0131l uyuyor. \u0130\u00e7im gidiyor onun o s\u0131cac\u0131k konforuna. Hava o kadar so\u011fuk ki, d\u00f6rt duvar aras\u0131nda, ya\u011fmurdan korunakl\u0131 bir yerde olmak bile nimet. Bir de ayakta kalan ve t\u00fcm geceyi volta at\u0131p, iki ayak topu\u011funu birbirine vurarak ve sigara \u00fcst\u00fcne sigara i\u00e7erek ge\u00e7iren bir berdu\u015f var ki; kendisini \u00f6ld\u00fcrmedi\u011fim i\u00e7in ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok \u015fansl\u0131.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sabah 04:00\u2019de \u00e7alan saat alarm\u0131yla g\u00fcn erkenden ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Bug\u00fcn g\u00fcnlerden yol ; \u00fcstelik on yedi saat s\u00fcrecek, otob\u00fcsle. Rotam\u0131z Bs As\u2019den ba\u015flay\u0131p, Ushuaia Milli park\u0131\u2019nda son bulan \u00fcnl\u00fc Ruta 3 \u00fczerinden, Rio Gallegos aktarmal\u0131 El Calafate. Otob\u00fcs liman b\u00f6lgesindeki YDF benzinli\u011finin yan\u0131ndaki bo\u015f alandan kalk\u0131yor. Beagle kanal\u0131ndan gelen arktik so\u011fuk yetmiyormu\u015f gibi bagajlar\u0131 yerle\u015ftiren yerden [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-583","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=583"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":886,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583\/revisions\/886"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=583"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=583"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=583"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}