{"id":61,"date":"2017-03-03T09:41:52","date_gmt":"2017-05-03T06:10:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/burdayiz.heliohost.org\/?p=61"},"modified":"2025-09-15T21:54:52","modified_gmt":"2025-09-15T18:54:52","slug":"sen-misin-uyuni-suyuni-bilmedigin-yere-giden","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/?p=61","title":{"rendered":"Sen misin Uyuni Suyuni Bilmedi\u011fin Yere Giden"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"responsive-map\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: 0;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d151483.26920525724!2d-68.25743468699447!3d-19.72183801631272!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x9155d56ad72dc8f5%3A0xc1250bff608e00dc!2sUyuni%2C+Bolivia!5e1!3m2!1sen!2str!4v1494856316565\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Kimi \u00e7\u00f6l diyor, kimi g\u00f6l. Kesin olan tek \u015fey ise deniz seviyesinden 3653 metre y\u00fckseklikte, 12,106 km\u00b2\u2019lik alana yay\u0131lan bir beyaz evrende oldu\u011fumuz. \u0130\u00e7inize safl\u0131k ve ferahl\u0131k sa\u00e7an, ufuk \u00e7izgisinin kayboldu\u011fu bir sonsuzluk. Neresi yer, neresi g\u00f6k anlamak zor. Sanki bulutlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcyormu\u015fsunuz gibisinden bir duygu. Buradan bir y\u0131lda elde edilen ortalama 20000 ton tuzun 18000 tonu insan t\u00fcketimine y\u00f6nelik kullan\u0131l\u0131rken, geri kalan\u0131 hayvansal ama\u00e7l\u0131 kullan\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. Y\u00fczeyin alt\u0131ndaki lityum yataklar\u0131 ise \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki y\u00fcz y\u0131l boyunca Bolivia ekonomisini kalk\u0131nd\u0131racak zenginlikteymi\u015f. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczden 40000 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinde bu b\u00f6lge, dev bir prehistorik g\u00f6l olan Minchin G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn bir par\u00e7as\u0131yken, kuruyarak ard\u0131nda Poop\u00f3 ve Uru Uru g\u00f6lleri ile Salar de Coipasa ve bundan daha b\u00fcy\u00fck olan Salar de Uyuni\u2019yi olu\u015fturmu\u015f. ABD\u2019deki benzeri Bonneville Tuz Rezervi\u2019nden yirmi be\u015f kat daha b\u00fcy\u00fckm\u00fc\u015f. \u00c7\u00f6l deyip ge\u00e7meyin, ayr\u0131ca G\u00fcney Amerika\u2019ya has \u00fc\u00e7 pembe flamingo t\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn de \u00fcreme alan\u0131ym\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Laf\u0131 daha fazla uzatmadan tuzdan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f otelimizdeki ilk \u00e7\u00f6l gecemize ge\u00e7iyorum. Hat\u0131rlarsan\u0131z, ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz hafta bu bembeyaz evrende, dev g\u00f6lgelerimizle e\u011flenerek g\u00fcne\u015fi bat\u0131r\u0131p tuzdan otelimize yerle\u015fmi\u015ftik. G\u00fcne\u015fi bat\u0131rd\u0131k dediysem \u00f6yle akl\u0131n\u0131za ak\u015fam sular\u0131 falan gelmesin! Umdu\u011fumuzdan \u00e7ok daha erken bir saatte otelin \u00f6n\u00fcne park eden \u0130ngilizce bilmez \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fczle birlikte cipin \u00fcst\u00fcne y\u00fckledi\u011fimiz e\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 indirdikten sonra odalar\u0131m\u0131za yerle\u015ftik. Adam da ne yaps\u0131n bizi e\u011flendirmek i\u00e7in \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn orta yerinde?! Turun ilk g\u00fcnk\u00fc program\u0131n\u0131 tamamlam\u0131\u015f\u0131z, bir arac\u0131n i\u00e7inde be\u015f kad\u0131n, bir erkek, herkes ayr\u0131 telden konu\u015fuyor. Kiminin tuvaleti geliyor, kimi foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek istiyor. E\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 odalar\u0131m\u0131za at\u0131p otel giri\u015findeki toplanma alan\u0131na gidiyoruz. \u00c7ok ge\u00e7meden ortam daha da kalabal\u0131kla\u015f\u0131yor. Her tur kendi masas\u0131 etraf\u0131nda topla\u015f\u0131yor, \u015fof\u00f6rler \u00e7ay, kahve ve tuzlu, tatl\u0131 bisk\u00fcvi servisi yap\u0131yor. Arkada\u015f, yokluk ne fena \u015fey yahu! San\u0131rs\u0131n ki onca para verip oralara kadar giden gezginler, hayatlar\u0131nda hi\u00e7 bisk\u00fcvi yememi\u015f! \u00d6ylesine bir \u201ckapan\u0131n elinde kal\u0131yor manzara\u201ds\u0131 ????Biz de tabi ki\u2026 Normal \u015fartlarda belki de elimize bile almayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z o bisk\u00fcviler, \u00fczerine alt\u0131n tozu serpilmi\u015f\u00e7esine k\u0131ymetleniyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1f9MF52njLPOXaVisOvd6yIzHTVDcGY62=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1f9MF52njLPOXaVisOvd6yIzHTVDcGY62=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ortada uyduruktan bir soba yan\u0131yor ama, bizden daha kalabal\u0131k olan \u015famatac\u0131 gen\u00e7ler etraf\u0131na dolu\u015ftuklar\u0131 i\u00e7in biz pek nasiplenemiyoruz. Karanl\u0131k \u00e7\u00f6ker \u00e7\u00f6kmez ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi kumanyas\u0131 geliyor. Tabaklar, tencereler masaya b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131yor. Payla\u015f\u0131m\u0131 ise kendimiz yap\u0131yoruz. Neyse ki i\u015fe atlayan demir \u00e7ene Frans\u0131z k\u0131z, b\u00f6l\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fc adaletli yap\u0131yor. Yan masada \u015farap i\u00e7erek \u015famatay\u0131 iyicene art\u0131ran gruba bak\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce halimize ac\u0131yan \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz \u201cyar\u0131n ak\u015fam sizin de bir s\u00fcrpriziniz var\u201d diyor. Burada yap\u0131lacak en g\u00fczel \u015fey katalitik de olsa o soban\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na oturup bira ya da \u015farap i\u00e7mek ama \u00e7\u00f6l ortas\u0131nda olunca fiyatlar\u0131 tahmin etmeniz g\u00fc\u00e7 de\u011fil. \u00dcst\u00fcne bir de y\u00fcksek irtifa sorununu ekleyin! Yola \u00e7\u0131karken \u015farap almay\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fck d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmesine ama hangi bir ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 alacaks\u0131n?! Zaten bir kasa dolusu su ald\u0131k. Tuvalet ka\u011f\u0131d\u0131yd\u0131, s\u0131rt \u00e7antalar\u0131yd\u0131, uyku tulumlar\u0131yd\u0131 derken, bir de arac\u0131 alt\u0131 ki\u015fi payla\u015f\u0131yoruz ve y\u00fck, her ak\u015fam inip, her sabah tekrar y\u00fckleniyor. \u00c7aya, \u00e7orbaya, suya devam. \u015eaka bir yana, bu keskin \u00e7\u00f6l so\u011fu\u011funda s\u0131cac\u0131k \u00e7orba da ila\u00e7 gibi geliyor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Yemek biter bitmez bizim ara\u00e7 yolcular\u0131 odalar\u0131na uykuya \u00e7ekiliyor. Ne de olsa sabah g\u00fcn a\u011farmadan yola \u00e7\u0131kaca\u011f\u0131z. Biz muhabbete devam ediyor, soba ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131 i\u015fgal etmi\u015f \u015famatac\u0131 gruba biti\u015fiyoruz. Geceyle birlikte so\u011fuk \u00f6ylesine kendini hissettiriyor ki, soban\u0131n orada oldu\u011funu bile bile ucundan bile yararlanmamak hi\u00e7 bize g\u00f6re de\u011fil. Zaten \u015famatac\u0131 grubun da bira takviyesiyle promil seviyesi art\u0131yor, yana\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z anda muhabbet ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Biz de soban\u0131n ucundan da olsa yan\u0131na yana\u015fabiliyoruz. Gen\u00e7lerin \u00e7o\u011fu \u00fcniversite \u00f6\u011frencisi ve Avrupal\u0131. Bizim T\u00fcrk oldu\u011fumuzu \u00f6\u011frenince pek \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131yorlar. Bir de muhtemelen benim a\u011fz\u0131m\u0131n i\u00e7inde gevi\u015f getirircesine d\u00f6nd\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm coca yapraklar\u0131na \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131yorlard\u0131r kan\u0131mca.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Yine zor bir geceye haz\u0131rlan\u0131yoruz. \u0130rtifa y\u00fcksek, oksijen az ve \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131na tuzdan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir otelde \u0131s\u0131nma sistemi aramayaca\u011f\u0131z elbette! Odada iki tane tuzdan yatak var, sabaha kadar yala, dur ???? \u0130\u00e7erisi buz gibi. V\u00fccut \u0131s\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 olabildi\u011finde verimli kullanabilmek i\u00e7in tek bir yata\u011fa s\u0131\u011f\u0131\u015f\u0131p, odada ne varsa \u00fczerimize \u00f6rt\u00fcyor, oksijensizli\u011fi pek d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeden uyumaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz. Ancak bu, bu sefer pek de kolay olmuyor. Montla, bereyle, eldivenle girdi\u011fim yatakta tam da dalmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken hafiften yoklayan bir nefes darl\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6nce kalp ritmimi bozuyor, sonras\u0131nda ise kar\u0131n a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131yla, mide bulant\u0131s\u0131 aras\u0131 bir rahats\u0131zl\u0131k yay\u0131yor. S\u0131rt \u00fcst\u00fc yatarak, i\u00e7 sesimle beynime olumlu sinyaller yollamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor, fazla h\u0131zlanan nabz\u0131m\u0131 yat\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz. Tam olacak gibi derken Yolda\u015f yataktan f\u0131rlay\u0131p, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck otel odas\u0131nda, iki yata\u011f\u0131n aras\u0131ndaki bo\u015flukta volta atmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Nefes alam\u0131yor, bo\u011fuluyormu\u015f! Ne kadar enteresan!!! Can\u0131m Yolda\u015f\u2019\u0131m, oksijen vard\u0131 da biz mi senden esirgedik?! \u0130la\u00e7 i\u00e7me konusundaki \u0131srar\u0131n\u0131, coca yapra\u011f\u0131yla ve su \u00f6nerimle k\u0131ramay\u0131nca daha fazla u\u011fra\u015fmadan, a\u011fz\u0131ma bir avu\u00e7 coca yapra\u011f\u0131 doldurup, \u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc \u00e7eke \u00e7eke \u00e7i\u011fniyorum. \u00dcst\u00fcne de suyumu i\u00e7ip, t\u00fcm bunlar\u0131 unutarak uykuya dal\u0131yorum. Yolda\u015f m\u0131??? O, buna s\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131yor ????<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1JMMdS0QgGhgu56GnrZYFfKuvay3TvznG=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1JMMdS0QgGhgu56GnrZYFfKuvay3TvznG=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Neyse ki bo\u011fulmadan ve tuvalete gitmek zorunda kalmadan (tuvaletler odalarda olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi, binan\u0131n mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n da bulundu\u011fu di\u011fer koridorunda) saatin uyand\u0131rma alarm\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131yor. Bir insan sabah g\u00fcne\u015f do\u011fmadan ve kargalar g\u00fcnayd\u0131nla\u015fmadan uyand\u0131\u011f\u0131na ancak bu kadar mutlu olabilir. E\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 toplay\u0131p, kahvalt\u0131 i\u00e7in sobal\u0131 topla\u015fma alan\u0131na gidiyoruz. Po\u015fet de olsa s\u0131cac\u0131k \u00e7ay\u0131n keyfi d\u00fcnyalara bedel. Kahvalt\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yapt\u0131ktan sonra, cipin \u00fczerine e\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 y\u00fckl\u00fcyoruz. Ve daha yolculu\u011fun ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcnde \u00f6ng\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm ara\u00e7 i\u00e7i yerle\u015fim sorunsal\u0131 kendini g\u00f6steriyor. Yolculu\u011fun ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcnde \u015fof\u00f6r yan\u0131ndaki \u00f6n tekliyi kapan uyan\u0131k Limal\u0131 anne, yerini kimselere kapt\u0131rmaya niyetli de\u011fil. Kronik rahats\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 nedeniyle kendisini araba tuttu\u011fundan ara\u00e7 i\u00e7inde \u00f6n koltuktan ba\u015fka yerde yolculuk edemiyormu\u015f. Bu durumda kendinize \u00f6zel bir ara\u00e7 tutman\u0131z, ya da bu t\u00fcr bir tura kat\u0131lmaman\u0131z gerekiyor say\u0131n bayan. Biz bu duruma itiraz edip, kendisinin b\u00f6yle \u00f6zel bir ayr\u0131cal\u0131\u011f\u0131 olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 savunurken, avukatl\u0131\u011fa kalk\u0131\u015fan, ve polemi\u011fi neredeyse insanl\u0131k dersi verme k\u0131vam\u0131na getiren demir \u00e7ene, ek\u00fcrisiyle birlikte yol boyunca cipin en rahats\u0131z yeri olan en arka koltukta gitmeyi kabul etti\u011fini s\u00f6yleyip sorunsal\u0131 kendince \u00e7\u00f6zd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek yol boyu hoplamal\u0131, z\u0131plamal\u0131, darac\u0131k bacak mesafeli yerine konu\u015flan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Az sonra do\u011facak olan g\u00fcne\u015fin enerjisiyle yola koyuluyoruz. Program\u0131m\u0131zda g\u00f6rece\u011fimiz birbirinden g\u00fczel yerler var ama\u2026 Bu gece daha zor ko\u015fullar bizi bekliyor. Daha y\u00fckseklere \u00e7\u0131kacak, ve herkesin vurgulad\u0131\u011f\u0131na bak\u0131lacak olursa, epey bir \u00fc\u015f\u00fcyece\u011fiz. T\u00fcm bunlar\u0131 bir kenara b\u0131rak\u0131p, bulundu\u011fumuz g\u00fczelliklerin keyfine bakal\u0131m iyisi mi. Etraf\u0131 5000 metre y\u00fckseklikteki volkanlarla \u00e7evrili Salar de Chiguana\u2019y\u0131 a\u015farken g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimiz b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici g\u00fczellikte.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1MhhIPPYEeU7OJutlinULRkRtCLZOjRsR=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1MhhIPPYEeU7OJutlinULRkRtCLZOjRsR=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1VyqaI41P-7oV5xjIsc86eqeyeKQvnKwQ=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1VyqaI41P-7oV5xjIsc86eqeyeKQvnKwQ=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1c84jAR9DnP7VrNg-E6cMk6kHOhn47MVO=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1c84jAR9DnP7VrNg-E6cMk6kHOhn47MVO=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">5830 metre y\u00fckseklikteki Cerro Tomasamil Yanarda\u011f\u0131, Ollague yan\u0131nda biraz s\u00f6n\u00fck kalm\u0131\u015f olsa da bu manzaraya son derece yak\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f bence.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Af6IOjbLNUF0O4qPXYIfgJENQCaHfMNk=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1Af6IOjbLNUF0O4qPXYIfgJENQCaHfMNk=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u015eili \u2013 Bolivia s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131nda, Atacama \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc kuzeyinde bulunan Ollague Yanarda\u011f\u0131, tarihe herhangi bir patlama kaydetmediyse de yo\u011fun volkanik gaz sal\u0131n\u0131m\u0131 dolay\u0131s\u0131yla aktif volkanlar aras\u0131nda an\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Zirvesi 5600 metrede bulunan yanarda\u011f, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma ko\u015fullar\u0131 son derece k\u00f6t\u00fc olan bir k\u00fck\u00fcrt madenine de ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yormu\u015f. Zirvedeki volkanik gaz sal\u0131n\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131plak g\u00f6zle g\u00f6rmek hi\u00e7 de zor de\u011fil.<\/p>\n<p>20160722.170527.Peru-Bolivya.jpg<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GRQYGc5U5en2KNbG1H2A37AjhuuNAy8k=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GRQYGc5U5en2KNbG1H2A37AjhuuNAy8k=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Laguna Hedionda ve pembe flamingolar. Tek dertleri yemek san\u0131r\u0131m ????<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_hwzkwQfJ50XRVfHV_ZtlNVcwp58AolX=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_hwzkwQfJ50XRVfHV_ZtlNVcwp58AolX=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u0130spanyolca \u201cflamenco\u201d olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan bu ku\u015flar, bacak hareketleriyle o me\u015fhur dansa da ismini vermi\u015f.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">G\u00f6l\u00fcn etraf\u0131nda k\u0131sa bir tur at\u0131p, uzun bacakl\u0131, zarif boyunlu pembe flamingolar\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fitli a\u00e7\u0131lardan g\u00f6zlemliyor, bol bol foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekiyoruz. Dokunacak mesafede yakla\u015fmam\u0131za da pek ald\u0131r\u0131\u015f etmiyorlar. Bir yan\u0131m\u0131zda volkanik da\u011flar, bir yan\u0131m\u0131zda g\u00f6ller yolumuza devam ederken \u00f6\u011flen yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in mola veriyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>20160722.181231.Peru-Bolivya.jpg<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">B\u00f6yle bir ortamda yemek yemek her zaman herkese k\u0131smet olmaz diyerek tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yoruz. Sofram\u0131zda meyveden tutun, i\u00e7ece\u011fe kadar ne ararsan\u0131z var. \u00c7\u00f6l ortam\u0131 da hediyesi.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10p7NcXia61q2Ybuj2xR-0k-pBTuDpcpR=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10p7NcXia61q2Ybuj2xR-0k-pBTuDpcpR=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>G\u00f6r\u00fcnen o ki tek a\u00e7 biz de\u011filiz. Kuru ekme\u011fe bile raz\u0131 oldu garibim ????<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1hAhs26CvFFun4gZyOJo2ngi2ME_-TpdT=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1hAhs26CvFFun4gZyOJo2ngi2ME_-TpdT=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ve kirlenmek g\u00fczeldir sav\u0131n\u0131 do\u011frulayan bir g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fc ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bir sonraki mola yerimiz Do\u011fu ve Bat\u0131 And Da\u011flar\u0131 ortas\u0131nda kalan ve birbirinden ilgin\u00e7 kaya olu\u015fumlar\u0131na ev sahipli\u011fi yapan Siloli \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Yol boyunca g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcze \u00e7arpan ilgin\u00e7liklerden bir tanesi de Yareta a\u011fac\u0131. Her ne kadar kendisi a\u011fa\u00e7 olarak an\u0131lsa da ilk g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fte kayal\u0131k zemini kaplam\u0131\u015f yosundan ba\u015fka bir \u015feye benzemiyor. \u0130\u015fin asl\u0131, yerel halk\u0131n ila\u00e7 yap\u0131m\u0131nda kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 kadar yararl\u0131 bir bitki oldu\u011fu. \u00dcstelik \u00e7ok da g\u00fczel bir g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc var, dev bir \u00a0brokoliyi and\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1q7bsqWZITxGjV8amMtZHOmzooIrXpCzL=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1q7bsqWZITxGjV8amMtZHOmzooIrXpCzL=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Peru, Bolivia, \u015eili Andlar\u0131\u2019nda 3000 \u2013 5000 metrelerde yeti\u015fen bitki, y\u00fcz y\u0131lda bir cm b\u00fcy\u00fcyormu\u015f ve g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimiz aras\u0131nda binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k olanlar varm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ve nihayet Siloli \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ndeyiz. \u0130klim de\u011fi\u015fikliklerinin ve r\u00fczgarlar\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu birbirinden ilgin\u00e7 kaya olu\u015fumlar\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya oldu\u011fumuz bu b\u00f6lge, Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna Milli Park\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde bulunuyor. Kaya olu\u015fumlar\u0131n\u0131n en ilgi \u00e7ekeni ise yedi metre boyundaki dev bir a\u011fa\u00e7 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde olan \u201cArbol de Piedra\u201d. Alt\u0131nda foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirebilmek i\u00e7in adeta s\u0131raya girmeniz gerekiyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pZlBzVj1L0NuV0vG4iaR8IjUNZzeSaJe=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1pZlBzVj1L0NuV0vG4iaR8IjUNZzeSaJe=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Topra\u011fa yak\u0131n k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131 r\u00fczgar\u0131n kuvvetiyle \u00f6ylesine a\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f ki t\u0131pk\u0131 bir a\u011fa\u00e7 g\u00f6vdesini and\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bunun d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki di\u011fer kaya olu\u015fumlar\u0131na da insanlar t\u0131rman\u0131p tepesinde t\u00fcrl\u00fc pozlar verip foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirmek i\u00e7in birbirleriyle yar\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1PgFAbrvCiPR2LyghZP1iia1_IhtyyvX6=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1PgFAbrvCiPR2LyghZP1iia1_IhtyyvX6=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1VDuCQaBLfsJ3ecyPFc1lNaOGKyMqg6UB=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1VDuCQaBLfsJ3ecyPFc1lNaOGKyMqg6UB=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">De\u011finmem gereken bir ba\u015fka nokta ise deniz seviyesinden 5000 metre y\u00fckseklikte oldu\u011fumuz ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Milli Park i\u00e7inde yolumuza devam ederken bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z suyunun rengi nedeniyle K\u0131z\u0131l G\u00f6l olarak da an\u0131lan Laguna Colorada. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en ender rastlanan flamingo t\u00fcr\u00fc olan James flamingolar\u0131n\u0131n ya\u015fam alan\u0131 olan g\u00f6l\u00fcn suyu, rengini i\u00e7indeki bazalt minerali ve alglerden al\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BVWhyKzTs99azm59mmQ1mQ3RruNC4cSv=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1BVWhyKzTs99azm59mmQ1mQ3RruNC4cSv=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">G\u00f6l etraf\u0131nda bir s\u00fcre oyalan\u0131p, foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektikten sonra tekrar yola koyuluyoruz ve k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz, pasaportlar\u0131m\u0131zla birlikte inip milli park \u00fccreti \u00f6dememiz gerekti\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Hep birlikte iniyor, s\u0131raya giriyoruz, bizden ba\u015fka gezginler de var.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12iJA_DCjzIGKEGxSTCNHR-gjrcSbax8t=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/12iJA_DCjzIGKEGxSTCNHR-gjrcSbax8t=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u0130\u00e7eride masa ba\u015f\u0131ndaki iki g\u00f6revli pasaportlar\u0131m\u0131zla her birimizi teker teker kay\u0131t ettikten sonra giri\u015f \u00fccretlerini al\u0131p bir fi\u015f veriyor. Bu bedel kim sorarsa bak\u0131m, koruma, vs t\u00fcr\u00fcnden hizmetler i\u00e7in al\u0131n\u0131yormu\u015f. Yol, tabela bile bulunmayan, tamamen do\u011fal bir ortamda neyi koruyorlar hi\u00e7 anlayamad\u0131m do\u011frusu! Bu geceyi bu rezervin i\u00e7inde ge\u00e7irece\u011fimize ve yar\u0131nki gezi plan\u0131m\u0131zda da g\u00f6receklerimiz oldu\u011funa g\u00f6re hay\u0131flanman\u0131n faydas\u0131 yok.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Tekrardan cipimize yerle\u015fip \u00e7ok ge\u00e7meden geceyi ge\u00e7irece\u011fimiz o \u201cme\u015fhur\u201d yere geliyoruz. K\u00f6y bile denilemez buraya. Yan yana in\u015fa edilmi\u015f birka\u00e7 s\u0131vas\u0131z binadan ba\u015fka ya\u015fam belirtisi bile yok neredeyse. K\u00f6pekleri ve bu b\u00f6lgede ya\u015fayan bir lama t\u00fcr\u00fc olan vicu\u00f1alar\u0131 saymazsak tabii\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_ZW0dNksAoKh60JxyK4C_oF4blMvM1h2=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_ZW0dNksAoKh60JxyK4C_oF4blMvM1h2=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hostel olarak kalaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yer ise tam anlam\u0131yla evlere \u015fenlik! \u0130ki ki\u015filik betondan ve penceresiz odam\u0131zda betondan yataklar\u0131m\u0131z var. Tavanda da g\u00fcn \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan yararlanmak \u00fczere yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ince uzun bir eternit b\u00f6l\u00fcm. I\u015f\u0131k girsin diye yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f tasar\u0131m harikas\u0131ndan daha ziyade so\u011fuk giriyor \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc kenarlarda delikler olu\u015fmu\u015f. Kendi y\u00f6ntemlerimizle delikleri kapat\u0131p, hava giri\u015fini engellemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz. Yer beton, duvar beton, yatak beton. Ve ak\u015fam s\u0131cakl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n eksi on be\u015f, yirmi derece aras\u0131nda oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor tur getirenler ???? Tuvalet ve mutfak ise hemen yan taraftaki ba\u015fka bir binada. Yani, gece uykunuzda olur da s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131rsan\u0131z \u00f6nce bu binadan d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p, sonra bah\u00e7eden giri\u015fi olan yan binaya gitmelisiniz. Dedim ya, bu gece uzun olacak besbelli. Rak\u0131m\u0131 hi\u00e7 sormay\u0131n zaten ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Etrafa \u015f\u00f6yle bir g\u00f6z atal\u0131m derken, sanki bir etraf varm\u0131\u015f gibi, buldu\u011fumuz bir bakkal\u0131ms\u0131dan bir litre \u015eili \u015farab\u0131 al\u0131yoruz. Yetmez elbet bu ko\u015fullarda ama bunun bir de oksijen k\u0131t\u0131 uyku fasl\u0131 var. Malumunuz, alkol v\u00fccutta su kayb\u0131na neden oldu\u011fundan \u2018Y\u00fcksek \u0130rtifa Hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 daha da tetikliyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1HiV6gY15M73mavWU9x_Nvu2kH7u1XhrL=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1HiV6gY15M73mavWU9x_Nvu2kH7u1XhrL=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Daha bu saatlerde \u00f6yle keskin bir so\u011fuk var ki, hostelin mutfak k\u0131sm\u0131ndaki oturma alan\u0131na gidip ikindi \u00e7ay\u0131nda verilen tuzlu, tatl\u0131 bisk\u00fcvilere yine ars\u0131zca sald\u0131r\u0131yoruz. Maksat zaman ge\u00e7sin, muhabbet olsun. Bizden ba\u015fka pek \u00e7ok gezgin var geceyi burada ge\u00e7irecek. \u0130skambil oynayanlar, \u015famata yapanlar, ortama yeni kat\u0131lanlar\u2026 S\u0131k\u0131lacakm\u0131\u015f\u0131z gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor ama \u00fc\u015f\u00fcyece\u011fimiz kesin. Burada soba t\u00fcr\u00fcnden bir \u015fey de yok. Demir \u00e7ene yan masadan \u00f6d\u00fcn\u00e7 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 iskambil ka\u011f\u0131tlar\u0131yla IQ seviyesi son derece d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcklere y\u00f6nelik bir oyun g\u00f6sterip oynamam\u0131z konusunda \u0131srar ediyor. Hi\u00e7 bana g\u00f6re de\u011fil, sevmem zaten o t\u00fcr oyunlar\u0131 pek. Ama onlar\u0131 bu be\u015f ya\u015f oyununu oynarken seyretmek hi\u00e7 fena say\u0131lmaz do\u011frusu, hele bir de yan\u0131nda \u015eili \u015farab\u0131 varsa.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi saati gelince iyice kalabal\u0131kla\u015f\u0131yor ortam. T\u00fcm masalar doluyor. \u015eof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz yemek servisiyle birlikte d\u00fcn gece s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc etti\u011fi s\u00fcrprizini de getirip masan\u0131n ortas\u0131na b\u0131rak\u0131yor. Bir \u015fi\u015fe k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap, hem de alt\u0131 ki\u015fi i\u00e7in. Neyse ki bizim kendi \u015farab\u0131m\u0131z var. Grubun di\u011fer d\u00f6rtl\u00fcs\u00fc ise yaln\u0131zca tad\u0131ml\u0131k al\u0131p kalan yar\u0131m \u015fi\u015feyi bize b\u0131rak\u0131yor. Sofray\u0131 toplamak \u00fczere gelen \u015fof\u00f6r bir \u015feyler anlat\u0131yor. Demir \u00e7ene \u0130spanyolca bildi\u011fi i\u00e7in yol boyunca \u00e7evirmenlikten sorumlu. Yar\u0131nki program\u0131m\u0131zda olan Laguna Verde\u2019ye g\u00f6t\u00fcrmeme konusunda bir tomar bahane \u00fcretiyor \u015fof\u00f6r. Efendim, mevsim dolay\u0131s\u0131yla buz tuttu\u011fu i\u00e7in g\u00f6rmeye de\u011fer bir yan\u0131 yokmu\u015f da, oraya gitmekten vazge\u00e7ersek sabah biraz daha ge\u00e7 uyand\u0131rma verebilirmi\u015f de, mi\u015f mi\u015f mi\u015f de m\u0131\u015f m\u0131\u015f m\u0131\u015f\u2026. Yok \u00f6yle yar\u0131m ekme\u011fe \u00e7eyrek porsiyon k\u00f6fte usta! T\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcz biz, yemeyiz. O zaman neden acente bu turu satarken ba\u015ftan bu durumu \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcp rotadan \u00e7\u0131karm\u0131yor?! Mevsim belli, iklim belli, parkur belli. Gitmek istedi\u011fimiz konusunda \u0131srarc\u0131 davran\u0131nca demir \u00e7ene t\u00fck\u00fcr\u00fckler sa\u00e7arak s\u00f6ylenmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Hakk\u0131n k\u0131z\u0131m senin oray\u0131 g\u00f6rmek, ko\u015fullar ne olursa olsun s\u00f6ylemlerimiz de ablay\u0131 sakinle\u015ftirmeye yetmiyor. Bir s\u00fcre \u00e7emkirdikten sonra odas\u0131na \u00e7ekiliyor. See you at 4 o\u2019clock in the morning tatl\u0131m. Have a nice night diyerek kendisini u\u011furluyoruz. Sanki ne kadar uyuyabilecekse 5000 metre y\u00fckseklikte ve \u2013 20 derece so\u011fukluktaki beton yata\u011f\u0131nda.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Biz, her zamanki gibi \u015famatac\u0131 Avrupal\u0131 grupla birlikte \u015farab\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yudumlay\u0131p uykumuzun gelmesi i\u00e7in biraz daha zaman ge\u00e7iriyoruz. Odam\u0131za gitmek i\u00e7in bah\u00e7eye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda ise tepemizde Samanyolu d\u00fcnyalara bedel do\u011frusu. Etrafta hi\u00e7 \u0131\u015f\u0131k olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in adeta bir y\u0131ld\u0131z \u015felalesi ak\u0131yor tepemizden. Bu da bunca zorlu\u011fun \u00f6d\u00fcl\u00fc olsun yani. Bakal\u0131m as\u0131l odaya girdikten sonra neler bekliyor bizi. Eh, o k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenmek i\u00e7in siz de biraz bekleyiverin can\u0131m. Bu arada da bo\u015f durmay\u0131n elbet. Buldu\u011funuz her f\u0131rsatta gezin. Az, \u00e7ok, yak\u0131n, uzak demeyin. Vurun kendinizi yollara, yeni yerler, yeni ke\u015fifler, yeni insanlar ve yeni an\u0131lar ekleyin hayat\u0131n\u0131za. Sevgiyle kal\u0131n\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Kimi \u00e7\u00f6l diyor, kimi g\u00f6l. Kesin olan tek \u015fey ise deniz seviyesinden 3653 metre y\u00fckseklikte, 12,106 km\u00b2\u2019lik alana yay\u0131lan bir beyaz evrende oldu\u011fumuz. \u0130\u00e7inize safl\u0131k ve ferahl\u0131k sa\u00e7an, ufuk \u00e7izgisinin kayboldu\u011fu bir sonsuzluk. Neresi yer, neresi g\u00f6k anlamak zor. Sanki bulutlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcyormu\u015fsunuz gibisinden bir duygu. Buradan bir y\u0131lda elde edilen ortalama 20000 ton tuzun [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=61"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":901,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61\/revisions\/901"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=61"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=61"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=61"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}