{"id":63,"date":"2017-03-10T09:41:52","date_gmt":"2017-05-03T06:11:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/burdayiz.heliohost.org\/?p=63"},"modified":"2025-09-15T21:13:19","modified_gmt":"2025-09-15T18:13:19","slug":"gayzer-neye-benzer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/?p=63","title":{"rendered":"Gayzer Neye Benzer ?"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"responsive-map\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: 0;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d151483.26920525724!2d-68.25743468699447!3d-19.72183801631272!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x9155d56ad72dc8f5%3A0xc1250bff608e00dc!2sUyuni%2C+Bolivia!5e1!3m2!1sen!2str!4v1494856316565\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">O samanyolu alt\u0131nda sal\u0131na sal\u0131na girdi\u011fimiz betonarme odam\u0131zda oksijensizlik ve so\u011fukla \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmal\u0131 gecemiz hayli \u00e7etin ge\u00e7ti haliyle. Mont, bere, eldiven \u00fcst\u00fcne odada ne varsa \u00f6rt\u00fcnerek tek beton yatakta \u0131s\u0131lar\u0131n g\u00fcc\u00fc ad\u0131na ne gerekiyorsa yapmam\u0131za kar\u015f\u0131n eksi yirmi derecelerde dans eden iklim ko\u015fullar\u0131 can\u0131m\u0131za okuyor. \u00dcst\u00fcne bir de 5000 metre oksijensizli\u011fini kat\u0131nca hapishane h\u00fccresinden hi\u00e7bir fark\u0131 olmayan odam\u0131z\u0131n beton koridorunda volta atmak olay\u0131n raconuna cuk oturuyor. \u015eurada sabah\u0131n 4\u2019\u00fcne ne kald\u0131 zaten. G\u00fcn a\u011farmas\u0131na epey bir zaman kala donarak yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kahvalt\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n i\u00e7eri\u011fi berbat denebilecek bir kay\u0131s\u0131 aromal\u0131 ayran ve \u015fekerli bisk\u00fcvi. Yesen, bo\u011fazdan ge\u00e7miyor, yemesen \u00f6\u011flene kadar a\u00e7s\u0131n! Yiyoruz haliyle, g\u00fczelmi\u015f gibi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak. Demir \u00e7ene ve ek\u00fcrisi t\u00fcm k\u00fcsl\u00fckleriyle masaya gelip ne var ne yoksa s\u00fcp\u00fcr\u00fcyorlar. Anne-k\u0131z ise sofrada kalanlar\u0131 \u00e7antaya doldurup cipteki yerlerine dolu\u015fuyorlar. \u015eof\u00f6r\u00fcn bagajlar\u0131 y\u00fcklemesiyle teker d\u00f6n\u00fcyor. Fakat bu kez ger\u00e7ekten yol yok. Bildi\u011finiz \u00e7orak \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131nda, kakt\u00fcslerin i\u00e7inde sallan yuvarlan yol almaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz. Demir \u00e7ene, upuzun bacaklar\u0131yla o darac\u0131k koltu\u011fa s\u0131\u011f\u0131\u015fmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak insanl\u0131k alg\u0131s\u0131ndan taviz vermezken, her sallant\u0131da tavana \u00e7arpan sivri kafas\u0131 yeni bir sun roof a\u00e7mak \u00fczere! Hissedilen so\u011fuk tahamm\u00fcl s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131z \u00e7ok \u00f6tesinde. Ve i\u015fin as\u0131l dumur k\u0131sm\u0131 cipin kaloriferinin \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131yor olmas\u0131. B\u00f6ylesi zor ko\u015fullarda ger\u00e7ekle\u015fecek yolculu\u011funuza b\u00f6yle bir ar\u0131zayla \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131yor olman\u0131z \u00e7ok da yabanc\u0131 oldu\u011fumuz bir esnafl\u0131k anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131 de\u011fil asl\u0131nda. Arac\u0131n i\u00e7i \u00f6ylesine so\u011fuk ki, ne termal i\u00e7lik, \u00e7orap kar ediyor, ne de kar botu. Ayak parmaklar\u0131m\u0131n uyu\u015farak, his kaybetti\u011fini s\u00f6ylerken inan\u0131n abartm\u0131yorum. Gecenin karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 delen cipin uzun farlar\u0131 topraktan g\u00f6\u011fe f\u0131\u015fk\u0131ran bas\u0131n\u00e7l\u0131 dumanlar\u0131 ayd\u0131nlat\u0131rken bir anda t\u00fcm dikkatler orada odaklan\u0131yor. B\u00f6yle bir \u015feyi hayat\u0131mda g\u00f6rmedim!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Hem g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcyle hem de \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 sesle \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fc. Yan\u0131na kadar yakla\u015f\u0131nca bir anda t\u00fcm tazyikiyle patlay\u0131p ba\u015fka bir gezegene u\u00e7uracak sanki yan\u0131nda ufac\u0131k kalan bedenimi. Zaman i\u00e7inde \u00e7\u00f6le d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f eski bir g\u00f6l yata\u011f\u0131nda jeotermal enerji kaynaklar\u0131n\u0131n toprak alt\u0131ndan p\u00fcsk\u00fcrmesiyle y\u00fckselen minerallerin bu nefes kesici g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6rebilmek i\u00e7in sabah\u0131n \u00e7ok erken saatleri orada bulunmak gerekiyor. Buna tan\u0131k olmak i\u00e7in ne gerekiyorsa yap\u0131l\u0131r der,\u00a0\u00e7ekilirim. Deniz seviyesinden 5000 metre y\u00fcksekte 90\u02daC \u0131s\u0131daki s\u00fclf\u00fcrik \u00e7amur havuzlar\u0131n\u0131n aras\u0131na bunlarda yerle\u015ftirin. Bak\u0131n, g\u00fcn a\u011farmaya ba\u015flarken tam da b\u00f6yle g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1fhYGUudv8RMBIs2C6MuHH5UGqB2QkdQh=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1fhYGUudv8RMBIs2C6MuHH5UGqB2QkdQh=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GgJ80BV2_aVbFD5sLsN2hFomXb6AG4mo=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1GgJ80BV2_aVbFD5sLsN2hFomXb6AG4mo=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Asl\u0131nda program\u0131m\u0131zda gayzerleri g\u00f6rd\u00fckten sonra termal su ve \u00e7amurlarda \u00e7imme molas\u0131 var ama bu saatte, bu so\u011fukta bunu kimsenin istemeyece\u011finden son derece emin \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz, istemese de yapmak zorunda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6revini tamamlamak \u00fczere Laguna Verde\u2019ye k\u0131r\u0131yor direksiyonu, termal sular i\u00e7in d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte mola veririz, b\u00f6ylece g\u00fcn iyicene a\u011farm\u0131\u015f olur diyor. Laguna Verde ismini z\u00fcmr\u00fct ye\u015fil sular\u0131ndan al\u0131yor. Suya bu rengi veren ise i\u00e7inde bulunan arsenik, kur\u015fun, bak\u0131r ve di\u011fer a\u011f\u0131r metaller. Ancak \u015fu anda \u00fczeri buz tuttu\u011fu i\u00e7in rengi g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor. Zaten \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz de bu bahaneyle buray\u0131 rotadan elemeyi teklif etmi\u015fti. Her ne olursa olsun, buraya kadar gelmi\u015fsem g\u00f6rmeden gitmem!<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1AiWoDh4PnlCkz_BrrEMJLiExMx14xG6p=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1AiWoDh4PnlCkz_BrrEMJLiExMx14xG6p=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Arka fonu s\u00fcsleyen 5960 m y\u00fckseklikteki Lincacabur Yanarda\u011f\u0131 suya enfes bir yans\u0131ma b\u0131rak\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/16YjUWW11YofOyhakMH7kbsL87oWdoGCA=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/16YjUWW11YofOyhakMH7kbsL87oWdoGCA=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Arac\u0131n termometresi eksi on alt\u0131 dereceyi g\u00f6sterirken ayaklar\u0131n maruz kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 so\u011fuk beraberinde ba\u015fka sorunlar getiriyor. Hay ben b\u00f6yle so\u011fu\u011fun da, \u0131s\u0131tma sistemi \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmayan cipin de i\u00e7ine \u2026. Zaten buraya gelmek i\u00e7in t\u00fcm grubu kar\u015f\u0131ma alm\u0131\u015f\u0131z, inip birka\u00e7 foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmeden olur mu? Bizden ba\u015fka kimse ara\u00e7tan inmeye bile tenezz\u00fcl etmezken, sabah bizimle yola \u00e7\u0131kan t\u00fcm di\u011fer ara\u00e7lar\u0131n da burada mola vermesi ba\u015fta \u015fof\u00f6r, sonras\u0131nda demir \u00e7ene ve avanisine g\u00fczel kapak oluyor. Anne-k\u0131z, kahvalt\u0131dan artanlarla g\u00fczelce karn\u0131n\u0131 doyuruyor. Ve \u00e7ok ge\u00e7meden, termal havuzlar\u0131n oldu\u011fu b\u00f6lgede mola veriyoruz. Buz gibi sabah ayaz\u0131nda kaynar sular\u0131n havada sal\u0131nan buharlar\u0131 tam da demir \u00e7ene ve \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fc i\u00e7inde ha\u015flamal\u0131k ???? Bizim Limal\u0131 k\u0131z hemen mayosunu giydi\u011fi gibi b\u0131rak\u0131yor kendisi kaynar kazana. Annesi de bol bol foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekiyor. Havuzlar bir anda insan doluyor, i\u00e7eride k\u0131m\u0131ldayacak yer kalm\u0131yor. Zaten bu so\u011fukta soyunup mayo giymeyi akl\u0131m\u0131za bile getirmek istemezken, bir de kalabal\u0131k \u00fcst\u00fcne tuz biber oluyor.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10GyHTfg9S5qDVnHWvIoyOIWI_Ux6rexv=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/10GyHTfg9S5qDVnHWvIoyOIWI_Ux6rexv=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1INlnrEPyx2gNLD2SaWjpBPTiKF374245=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1INlnrEPyx2gNLD2SaWjpBPTiKF374245=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Buradan sonra iki yol se\u00e7ene\u011finiz var: \u015eili\u2019ye, Atacama \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne devam etmek ya da Kayalar Vadisi ve San Cristobal\u2019\u0131 ziyaret ettikten sonra tura ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z kasabaya geri d\u00f6nmek. Biz, ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fl\u00fc tur sat\u0131n alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Almaz olsaym\u0131\u015f\u0131z, bu buz gibi ara\u00e7ta sindirim sistemi de yatak sard\u0131. ???? En arkada yolculuk eden demir \u00e7ene ve ek\u00fcrisinin i\u00e7 organlar\u0131 yer de\u011fi\u015ftirmi\u015f olmal\u0131!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ve bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z volkanik dev kayalardan olu\u015fan Rocks Valley. Burada da anne-k\u0131z ve bizden ba\u015fka inen olmuyor. Birka\u00e7 foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekip biraz ortam\u0131 g\u00f6zlemledikten sonra araca geri d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz ama anne-k\u0131z ikilisi her zamanki gibi katalog \u00e7ekiminde.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1q8aQj6JZINCByHDI7cnWBn3vWVcDZMzx=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1q8aQj6JZINCByHDI7cnWBn3vWVcDZMzx=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1-60qcXk2s5cKw0fKw4k3qMQH8JxeFynN=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1-60qcXk2s5cKw0fKw4k3qMQH8JxeFynN=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/142LH5lTe1rcsXp11UlVdtSNsU2qpZt8r=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/142LH5lTe1rcsXp11UlVdtSNsU2qpZt8r=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Az sonra k\u0131sa s\u00fcreli foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekimi i\u00e7in ek\u00fcrisi indiyse de, kapristen midir, nedendir bilinmez, demir \u00e7enenin durumu pek iyi g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor. Ve nihayet anne-k\u0131z\u0131n da te\u015frifiyle yemek molas\u0131 verece\u011fimiz yere hareket ediyoruz. K\u0131sa s\u00fcreli yol ald\u0131ktan sonra son derece k\u00f6hne bir k\u00f6y\u00fcn i\u00e7ine giriyor, derme \u00e7atma bir lokantan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne park ediyoruz.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u0130\u015fte tam da burada t\u00fcm sald\u0131rganl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla rahats\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 dile getirmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan demir \u00e7ene, kendisinin \u00e7ok rahats\u0131z oldu\u011funu, ba\u015f a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131 ve mide bulant\u0131s\u0131 \u015fikayetleri nedeniyle daha fazla arka ikilide seyahat edemeyece\u011fini ve kendisiyle yer de\u011fi\u015ftirmek \u201czorunda\u201d oldu\u011fumuzu \u00e7emkiriyor. Hi\u00e7 kusura bakma \u015fekerim; senin insani \u00f6nerindi anne ve k\u0131z\u0131n t\u00fcm yol boyunca ayn\u0131 koltuklar\u0131 i\u015fgal etmeleri\u2026 Biz sana insani olan\u0131 \u00f6nermi\u015ftik; herkese e\u015fit da\u011f\u0131l\u0131m, e\u015fit konfor, e\u015fit rahats\u0131zl\u0131k ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Zaten sabah yedi\u011fimiz so\u011fuktan sonra kimsede g\u00fc\u00e7, keyif kalm\u0131yor. Men\u00fcde pirin\u00e7 pilav\u0131, ton bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve salata var. \u0130\u015ftahs\u0131zca yiyoruz yeme\u011fimizi. Bende intestinal, Yolda\u015f\u2019ta gribal dertler. Demir \u00e7ene darma duman. Kendisini orta koltu\u011fa transfer ediyor, irtifa hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131na yakaland\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyerek yan\u0131m\u0131zdaki ila\u00e7tan veriyoruz. \u0130la\u00e7 almak istemiyor. Demek son kinini kusmu\u015f az \u00f6nce yemek i\u00e7in durdu\u011fumuz yerde. Ben ve Limal\u0131 k\u0131z arka ikiliye yerle\u015fiyoruz; arac\u0131n en minyon ikilisi olarak ???? Rotam\u0131zda San Cristobal kasabas\u0131 var.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">San Cristobal kasabas\u0131, dev g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f ve \u00e7inko madenleri olan ilk kuruldu\u011fu yerden 21 km uza\u011fa ta\u015f\u0131nmak zorunda kalm\u0131\u015f. Yeni San Cristobal\u2019\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131 ise 1999\u2019da tamamlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_kLFfHXgTgU-Pga-XJphHbOp_2o3OaZH=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_kLFfHXgTgU-Pga-XJphHbOp_2o3OaZH=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1HCXAp_kA7DWu9GmVtbBRyKuep5Umj8Vs=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1HCXAp_kA7DWu9GmVtbBRyKuep5Umj8Vs=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1mXn1Abc_un_vpEzRycRI8r18ReLA9RhG=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1mXn1Abc_un_vpEzRycRI8r18ReLA9RhG=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u015eehir yer de\u011fi\u015ftirirken ta\u015flar\u0131 tek tek ta\u015f\u0131nan kilise, sapasa\u011flam ve p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcne kar\u015f\u0131n Bolivia Altiplanosu\u2019nun eski kiliselerindenmi\u015f. Duvarlar\u0131 ve freskleri 17. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalmaym\u0131\u015f. Bu kilise d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda pek de detay olmayan bir yerle\u015fim birimi, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck bir k\u00f6y. Ufak bir pazar alan\u0131, bir de bisiklet turlar\u0131 var.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1G8gONHq3ZtB7AinGTEzpgDGHZvh0B4_u=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1G8gONHq3ZtB7AinGTEzpgDGHZvh0B4_u=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1TVMt8sgHFmgnBRLD7aPyN9P0vva_n-Oz=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1TVMt8sgHFmgnBRLD7aPyN9P0vva_n-Oz=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/13WucwqOF9OK2rLyFnVnAgL7PkWTikr1j=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/13WucwqOF9OK2rLyFnVnAgL7PkWTikr1j=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Bizim i\u00e7inse bu \u00e7\u00f6l parkurunun son dura\u011f\u0131. Tekrardan yola koyuluyoruz, ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z noktaya varmak \u00fczere. Demir \u00e7ene neredeyse yar\u0131 bayg\u0131n halde ve hala ila\u00e7 i\u00e7meme konusunda \u0131srarl\u0131. Yol desen, yol demeye bin \u015fahit ister! Sallanmaktan herkes derin uykuda. Ve nihayet yola ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerdeyiz. Asl\u0131nda s\u00f6yleyecek \u00e7ok \u00e7\u00f6z, \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclecek \u00e7ok dava var da, kiminle neyi \u00e7\u00f6zecen?! Adam senden pe\u015fin paray\u0131 al\u0131p seni \u0131s\u0131tmas\u0131 olmayan ciple \u2013 16\u02da so\u011fukta gezdirdi mi? \u0130ngilizce bilen \u015fof\u00f6r deyip bir kelime anlamayan ve konu\u015fmayan adam\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na \u00e7oban diye verdi mi? \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131nda, kakt\u00fcs gibi, bu ko\u015fullarla cebelle\u015fmek zorunda kald\u0131n m\u0131? Hadi bak keyfine, daha art\u0131k neyin hesab\u0131ndas\u0131n?!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u00c7antalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 y\u00fcklendi\u011fimiz gibi, geli\u015fimizde otob\u00fcsten indi\u011fimiz yeri bulup yan yana dizilmi\u015f otob\u00fcs firmalar\u0131ndan Sucre \u015fehrine, ak\u015fam olabildi\u011fince ge\u00e7 saat \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fl\u0131 otob\u00fcs bileti soru\u015fturuyoruz. \u00c7ok fazla se\u00e7enek olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi iki katl\u0131, yatar koltuklu ve tuvaletli otob\u00fcs yok\u00a0o istikamete. Yatar koltuk olmay\u0131\u015f\u0131 hi\u00e7 de rahat yolculuk ko\u015fullar\u0131 sunmazken, tuvaletsizlik ayr\u0131 bir dert! Ba\u015fka \u015fans\u0131m\u0131z olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce al\u0131yoruz biletimizi. \u00c7\u00f6lde ge\u00e7irdi\u011fimiz iki geceden sonra bunun da \u00fcstesinden geliriz elbet! Dal\u0131yoruz kasaban\u0131n sokaklar\u0131na. M\u00fczik bizi \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131yor, e\u011flence mi, bir anda kendimizi bir kutlaman\u0131n ortas\u0131nda buluveriyoruz. Bir bando tak\u0131m\u0131 ve pe\u015finde ellerinde bira \u015fi\u015feleri, dans edip \u015fark\u0131lar s\u00f6yleyen bir grup.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1XKsv963tFTXOTAWOd6ksqoocK4nVhW1U=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1XKsv963tFTXOTAWOd6ksqoocK4nVhW1U=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1yV74fxL0tg9NhLGx4AivOPB1Gled2xCa=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1yV74fxL0tg9NhLGx4AivOPB1Gled2xCa=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_iGImzgIMZuHZlAsfueo9lEFGniUrSkq=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1_iGImzgIMZuHZlAsfueo9lEFGniUrSkq=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1KmtzF2iVEJMKiRasB4OWZAo8rOnvzw14=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1KmtzF2iVEJMKiRasB4OWZAo8rOnvzw14=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zPrbhJedNoBjeyUOFOac3_kw5WjzrPYr=s1200?authuser=0\" rel=\"lightbox\" data-lightbox-type=\"iframe\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone hoverZoomLink\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/d\/1zPrbhJedNoBjeyUOFOac3_kw5WjzrPYr=s1200?authuser=0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Karn\u0131m\u0131z da iyiden iyiye ac\u0131k\u0131yor. \u0130kimizin de durumu neredeyse peri\u015fan! Birimiz tuvaletten \u00e7\u0131kam\u0131yor, birimiz burnunda mendil tamponlar\u0131yla geziniyor. Sala\u015f bir esnaf lokantas\u0131nda tavuk men\u00fcl\u00fc yeme\u011fimizi yedikten sonra iyicene kendini g\u00f6steren ak\u015fam ayaz\u0131nda bir a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 bir yukar\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcrken, merkezdeki otob\u00fcs firmalar\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu caddenin sonuna do\u011fru k\u00f6\u015fede g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bir firma gece yar\u0131s\u0131, \u00e7ift katl\u0131, yatar koltuklu ve tuvaletli bir otob\u00fcs kald\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. \u0130kimizin de bu geceki yolu uyuyarak ge\u00e7irmeye \u00e7ok ihtiyac\u0131m\u0131z var. \u00dcstelik birimiz i\u00e7in tuvalet, acil durum gereksinimi olabilir! Alt kattaki tekli yatar koltuklarda \u00f6nl\u00fc arkal\u0131 iki bilet sat\u0131n al\u0131yoruz. \u015eimdi s\u0131rada daha \u00f6nce ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z biletleri iade edip, paray\u0131 kurtarma fasl\u0131 var. \u00c7antalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 da emanetine b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00d6zUyuni Seyahat\u2019e durumumuzu anlat\u0131p ki zaten aks\u0131ra t\u0131ks\u0131ra konu\u015fan Yolda\u015f\u2019\u0131n her halinden hastal\u0131k ak\u0131yor, daha rahat edebilece\u011fimiz bir firmadan bilet ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyoruz. Hareket saatine \u00e7ok az kald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 savunarak talebimizi geri \u00e7eviriyorlar. Biz de, hi\u00e7bir firman\u0131n o rotaya tuvaletli ve yatar koltuklu otob\u00fcs kald\u0131rmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyerek bizi kand\u0131rd\u0131klar\u0131 gerek\u00e7esiyle sald\u0131r\u0131ya ge\u00e7iyoruz. K\u0131ran k\u0131rana ge\u00e7en s\u00f6z d\u00fcellosundan sonra ufak bir kesintiyle bilet \u00fccretlerini geri al\u0131yoruz. Bu arada t\u00fcm bu s\u00f6z d\u00fcellosunu translate y\u00f6ntemiyle cep telefonu \u00fczerinden ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirdi\u011fimizi s\u00f6ylesem acaba ne dersiniz? ????<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">So\u011fuk iyicene deler ge\u00e7er k\u0131vama gelince \u0131s\u0131nma gereksinimimiz ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lmaz boyuta var\u0131yor. Mekanlardaki tepe \u0131s\u0131t\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 ve sobalar her ne kadar \u00e7ok \u00e7ekici g\u00f6r\u00fcnse de oradan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan sonraki s\u00fcre\u00e7 \u00e7ok daha ac\u0131 verici olaca\u011f\u0131ndan bilet ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z firman\u0131n yar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k bekleme salonunda zaman ge\u00e7irmeyi tercih ediyoruz. \u0130\u00e7eride, bilet kesen ablan\u0131n masas\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda duran ufac\u0131k elektrik sobas\u0131ndan nemaland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 san\u0131yoruz. Bekleme salonu ise tam curcuna. \u00c7o\u011fu yerel halktan olmak \u00fczere insan kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve onlar\u0131n \u00fcst \u00fcste y\u0131\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kirli boh\u00e7alar\u0131, y\u0131rt\u0131k p\u0131rt\u0131k \u00e7uvallara tepilmi\u015f e\u015fyalar\u0131. Yer yer de bizim gibi gezginlerin s\u0131rt \u00e7antalar\u0131. Otob\u00fcsler pe\u015f pe\u015fe kalkarken, bizimkinin hareket saati de geliyor. Alt kattaki \u00f6nl\u00fc arkal\u0131 koltuklar\u0131m\u0131za yatar pozisyonda yay\u0131l\u0131yoruz. Yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan az sonra bizim kattan bir yolcu tuvalete girmek istiyor, ama tuvaletin kap\u0131s\u0131 kilitli. Muavini \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131yor, derdini anlat\u0131yor ama kimse pek oral\u0131 olmuyor. Bir m\u00fcddet sonra gen\u00e7 de yerine oturup uykusuna devam ediyor. Biz de rahat\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce gev\u015fiyor, uykuya dal\u0131veriyoruz. Gecenin en derin saatlerinde, uykumun en derin yerinde uyand\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yorum, sevgili Yolda\u015f\u2019\u0131m taraf\u0131ndan. Tuvalet ihtiyac\u0131m olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 soruyor. Uyku sersemli\u011fi i\u00e7inde konunun ne oldu\u011funu anlamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken, bay\u0131ra kar\u015f\u0131 toplu hacet g\u00f6rme molas\u0131 verdi\u011fimizi \u00f6\u011freniyorum. Evet, yanl\u0131\u015f duymad\u0131n\u0131z; fazla kirlendi\u011fi gerek\u00e7esiyle tuvaletleri kullan\u0131ma kilitleyen kalle\u015f muavin ve \u015fof\u00f6r koalisyonu gecenin karas\u0131nda, yolun kenar\u0131nda durup uygun g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcz bir k\u00f6\u015fede hacetinizi g\u00f6rmeniz i\u00e7in b\u00f6ylesi bir \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm \u00fcretmi\u015f! Bunlar\u0131n bizden hi\u00e7 fark\u0131 yok yahu!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Neyse ki, bu en laz\u0131m yolculukta yatarak dinlenebilece\u011fimiz birer koltu\u011fumuz var. Bakal\u0131m bir sonraki rotam\u0131zda neler ya\u015fayacak, kimlerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015faca\u011f\u0131z. Beyaz \u015fehir Sucre\u2019de g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceye dek ho\u015f\u00e7a kal\u0131n, bilmedi\u011finiz yollara dal\u0131n.[mappress mapid=&#8221;4&#8243;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>O samanyolu alt\u0131nda sal\u0131na sal\u0131na girdi\u011fimiz betonarme odam\u0131zda oksijensizlik ve so\u011fukla \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmal\u0131 gecemiz hayli \u00e7etin ge\u00e7ti haliyle. Mont, bere, eldiven \u00fcst\u00fcne odada ne varsa \u00f6rt\u00fcnerek tek beton yatakta \u0131s\u0131lar\u0131n g\u00fcc\u00fc ad\u0131na ne gerekiyorsa yapmam\u0131za kar\u015f\u0131n eksi yirmi derecelerde dans eden iklim ko\u015fullar\u0131 can\u0131m\u0131za okuyor. \u00dcst\u00fcne bir de 5000 metre oksijensizli\u011fini kat\u0131nca hapishane h\u00fccresinden hi\u00e7bir fark\u0131 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-63","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=63"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":896,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63\/revisions\/896"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=63"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=63"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/burdayiz.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=63"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}